5:45pm: taking a bit of a break at the b&b after a day I can only describe as: lots of old stuff, as some days in Italy sometimes are! In the morning after breakfast, I hopped on the little electric minibus to the archaeological museum. Its vast and one could probably spend all day looking in room after room of old pottery and bones and statues, oh my, but as per usual, I lasted about 40 minutes. I was also practically alone. It always makes me sad when museums are almost empty.
Then I walked around the corner to the old church of San Giovanni, where you can see catacombs. It was me plus a tour of old Brits. I know Americans get a bad name abroad, but I think the competition for most insufferable tourists is firmly between the French, German, and Brits. Sorry. Anyway, the catacombs are vast and impressive.
Made my way over to the maim archaeological park, which houses a bunch of ruins, including a huge Greek theatre cut into a hill above town. Wild. It was largely covered up because they're doing performances there. Took the minibus back to town to inquire about the boat tours. They told me to come back at 2. In the meantime I cobbled a lunch together of a pizza read rolled up thing, cheese stuffed potato balls, a couple mini pastries, and a strawberry granita. Don't worry I didn't finish it all!! I also stumbled upon a little farmers market where I got some mulberries (i think? They're purple!!) and bought some almond products to bring home.
Then went back to catch the boat. Had to wait a bit for a couple other people to show up and then we were off. The water was a little choppy but it was OK. First we went out to the sea caves, which are awesome. We went into one of them and you could see the bottom of the water it was so clear and clean. Then the boat went around the ancient part of Siracusa, the island of Ortigia.
Made my way back towards the hotel and saw the duomo and its underground were open. But not before I bought some earrings from an artisan selling on the street! The underground takes you under the whole main square right out near the water. The woman explaining everything to me when I got my ticket was surprised when I took a pamphlet in English! Victory! The underground let out right near a gelato shop I thought I wasn't going to get to. You know the rest of this story. And then it was back to the b&b for a little rest.
10:15pm: Back at the b&b feeling stuffed after dinner at the cute little A Putia. Before dinner I went over to the water and watched the sunset. Then I went to eat at this little place that maybe has 12 tables. I had a ridiculous antipasto platter, which had 3 salamis, 3 cheeses, olives, and sun-dried tomatoes. All delicious and only 4 euros. Then I had pasta with pistachio pesto. I know what you are thinking, that's what I had last night? Well, kind of. This was made with normal pasta and had cream and bacon in it. And I am so stuffed I did not even get anything for dessert!
On the way back from dinner I heard some noise from the street so I followed it and there was some kind of procession. I've learned many things during my trips to Italy, and one of them is to follow noise when you hear it - it almost always leads to something cool!
On the way back from dinner I heard some noise from the street so I followed it and there was some kind of procession. I've learned many things during my trips to Italy, and one of them is to follow noise when you hear it - it almost always leads to something cool!
Edit: and at 10:30 there was a short fireworks display that was so close the ground shook bit by the time I got up to the roof, it was over!
24,586 steps and almost 10 miles today. And tomorrow it is off to Ragusa!
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