Back to the start of my day, I caught the 7:30am bus to Palermo from Trapani, which took about two hours, mostly because of traffic getting out of Trapani and into Palermo, and took a taxi to the b&b, which cost 15 euros and that seemed like a lot. They were expecting me even though the room wasn't ready. What a cute place, clearly put together by young hip people. I checked in, left my luggage, and set out. First stop, gelateria Lucchese for a morning snack of dark chocolate and pistachio.
Then I went to the Teatro Massimo, the biggest opera house in Italy and one of the biggest anywhere. Took a guided tour, but unfortunately they were rehearsing so the theatre was dark, so no pictures but I could tell it was gorgeous. It is all in wood and there are paintings in the roof that can open for fresh air during performances since they can't use the a/c because it dries out the singers' vocal chords. Brilliant!
Then went over to the Capo market which spills into the streets not unlike the Catania market but the streets are narrower and this feels more hap-hazard but it is amazing and fun. Bought some cherries and had a "pane e panelle" sandwich for lunch. I had been looking forward to trying this in Palermo ever since I heard about it. They take a fresh roll and stuff it with freshly fried chickpea fritters with lemon juice. One of the more delicious and authentic and fun two euros I've spent.
Wandered around the old city, and found an artisan who makes art out of wood inlay. Everything was so beautiful and I knew I was in trouble. Then the shop owner started talking to me and asked about trump and why we sent him here. We ended up chatting for a while and he went on to explain that everything is better here because the sun is different. To say it was a thoroughly enjoyable conversation would be an incredible understatement. I bought a couple things and had another gelato.
Then I set off for the cathedral, which is on a long pedestrian street. Had a mulberry granita along the way. The cathedral is truly incredible from the outside. The style is Arab-Norman, whatever that means. I bought the ticket that also allows you to walk on the roof. Amazing views. The crypt is in the 7th century part of the church and was wild. I kept walking down the pedestrian street and into several more impressive churches. In fact if you forced me to tell you how many churches I went into today, I wouldn't be able to but I'm guessing at least ten. And it seemed that one was more beautiful than the next.
The real piece de la resistance, though, is the Palatina chapel, which is completely covered in gold mosaics and is too stunning for words. It's in a royal palace and unfortunately the apartments are closed to visitors midweek. Oh well.
Wandered back towards the b&b just people watching and going into more churches. There was a wedding going on in one of them. At 4pm on a Wednesday. Because that is what Italans do.
Made it back to the b&b around 5 and settled in. The room is big and has a great view. The bathroom is private, but external. AND IT HAS A BATHTUB AND NOTHING ELSE MATTERS.
Left around 6:30 to wander the "Vucciria" neighborhood a bit. Silently there used to be a huge street market here too but it's fallen off of late. The buildings are in really bad shape and there's a lot of street art on them and the squares are filled with street food vendors and bars. Fascinating area.
Then I set off for the cathedral, which is on a long pedestrian street. Had a mulberry granita along the way. The cathedral is truly incredible from the outside. The style is Arab-Norman, whatever that means. I bought the ticket that also allows you to walk on the roof. Amazing views. The crypt is in the 7th century part of the church and was wild. I kept walking down the pedestrian street and into several more impressive churches. In fact if you forced me to tell you how many churches I went into today, I wouldn't be able to but I'm guessing at least ten. And it seemed that one was more beautiful than the next.
The real piece de la resistance, though, is the Palatina chapel, which is completely covered in gold mosaics and is too stunning for words. It's in a royal palace and unfortunately the apartments are closed to visitors midweek. Oh well.
Wandered back towards the b&b just people watching and going into more churches. There was a wedding going on in one of them. At 4pm on a Wednesday. Because that is what Italans do.
Made it back to the b&b around 5 and settled in. The room is big and has a great view. The bathroom is private, but external. AND IT HAS A BATHTUB AND NOTHING ELSE MATTERS.
Left around 6:30 to wander the "Vucciria" neighborhood a bit. Silently there used to be a huge street market here too but it's fallen off of late. The buildings are in really bad shape and there's a lot of street art on them and the squares are filled with street food vendors and bars. Fascinating area.
10:15: back at the b&b after a delicious dinner of spaghetti with "slow food" garlic and tomatoes, followed by grilled chicken that was especially good. The place was a trip. The lady at the front was clearly running the show and the wait staff just kept running around like chickens with their heads cut off. After finishing dinner I went a little bit back through the Vucciria section, which was now hopping with people on the streets, vendors, and people spilling out of bars. I stumbled upon Gelateria Lucchese again and had some sorbetto - strawberry and watermelon - before coming back to the b&b for the night.
Tomorrow it's exploring more of the city and markets and going to a suburb of Monreale for one of the most important churches there is in Italy.
I keep thinking I am goign to have a lighter walking day and it keeps not happening. Today: 29,863 steps and 11.88 miles and my feet are starting to hate me for sure.
Internet does not seem great at this b&b so the many pictures from today are uploading slowly. I should be able to get them up tomorrow.
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