5:30pm: back at the b&b for a rest after a day that was probably longer than it should've been. Woke up around 6 then went back to sleep and suddenly it was 8??!! Rushed to shower and get ready and talked to the b&b owner about the taxi I need at 4am tomorrow. She booked it for me so that's good, I guess. I also asked her what the activities at 5:30am yesterday morning were. Apparently it was something related to organic food? Well ok then.
Then I set out to find Domenico, my guide for the walking tour I booked. He arrived and told me the other party of four that was supposed to join canceled only a while before the tour, because they were tired. I mean come on. I was sure they were American flakes, but nope, British. I felt so badly because he lost out on a lot of money by them not showing up and you could tell it irked him. But good for me because I got basically a private walking tour of Palermo! He's an interesting guy, very sarcastic and funny but also tried to get me to buy stuff places he showed me.
We went to a mix of some places I'd been but I learned things I didn't know, plus new places. He also seems to know everyone so he took me to see artisans of various kinds. A silversmith was making something for a synagogue in New York! One guy was making panelle to sell to carts out of what looked like a very unsanitary little room. We went to a coffee place where they were roasting the beans right there. I told them I like and they blended me a mix and I bought 300g to take home. And I discovered a cremino, a frothy drink of coffee, cream, and sugar that's slushy and it's the greatest things I've ever had. I literally went later and got another one. Anyway back to the tour, it included samples of arancini, panelle, wine, and a cannolo. I also learned that they use the same word for peach and nectarine here, what the heck? And the reason the street corner I posted a picture of was in Hebrew and Arabic as well as Italian is because that was the old Jewish quarter and they want to have that as a reminder. Apparently the old synagogue was destroyed then used as a church then abandoned, but they are restoring it and according to Domenico, it will be a synagogue again next year!
I learned that the ruined buildings all over are in fact from the bombing in 1943 and they haven't had the money to repair them yet but that's a big plan. Some buildings have been restored but they are expensive so they are not selling. He also confirmed the mafia is still a big presence and suggested most of the stuff in the markets was involved with that. Yikes? It sounds like this city 20 years ago was pretty terrible and in another 10-20 years it may be unbearably touristy...
After the tour I came back to the b&b for a few and set out again. I got my second cremino then a lemon/watermelon granita and set out for a little more sightseeing. I went first back to the royal palace because the royal apartments were open today unlike the other day, so I just paid again. Not sure it was worth it but oh well.
Then I went to Cappello, supposedly one of the best pastry shops in the city and its base the palace and was closed the other day. I had a slice of the setteveli I keep talking about. This time it was the cake version that was apparently invented here. It was delicious layers of chocolate indeed. Then I walked out to the Zisa palace through neighborhoods I'm not sure I should've been in. Zisa is the obit secular Arab-Norman building. It's mostly been ruined and reconstructed, but it was still beautiful. By the way I also learned on the tour that Arab-Norman is unique to Sicily and it comes from the fact that they used Arab artisans ti builds the buildings in Arabic style while the Normans ruled. Ok then!
Then I walked over to the cappucin catacombs, which is over 2000 mummified remains and basically the creepiest, most morbid, most uncomfortable thing I've ever seen. Truly yuck. Then I made the lengthy trek back to the b&b for a bit before having an early dinner in a while. An election is coming here in June and on my walk back a guy came up to me to hand me something. In Italian, I told him I'm American and he was like, oh sorry you have your own problems! Don't I know out my friend, don't I know it. Although I don't want to go home I think my feet are glad today's the last day of pounding!
Then I set out to find Domenico, my guide for the walking tour I booked. He arrived and told me the other party of four that was supposed to join canceled only a while before the tour, because they were tired. I mean come on. I was sure they were American flakes, but nope, British. I felt so badly because he lost out on a lot of money by them not showing up and you could tell it irked him. But good for me because I got basically a private walking tour of Palermo! He's an interesting guy, very sarcastic and funny but also tried to get me to buy stuff places he showed me.
We went to a mix of some places I'd been but I learned things I didn't know, plus new places. He also seems to know everyone so he took me to see artisans of various kinds. A silversmith was making something for a synagogue in New York! One guy was making panelle to sell to carts out of what looked like a very unsanitary little room. We went to a coffee place where they were roasting the beans right there. I told them I like and they blended me a mix and I bought 300g to take home. And I discovered a cremino, a frothy drink of coffee, cream, and sugar that's slushy and it's the greatest things I've ever had. I literally went later and got another one. Anyway back to the tour, it included samples of arancini, panelle, wine, and a cannolo. I also learned that they use the same word for peach and nectarine here, what the heck? And the reason the street corner I posted a picture of was in Hebrew and Arabic as well as Italian is because that was the old Jewish quarter and they want to have that as a reminder. Apparently the old synagogue was destroyed then used as a church then abandoned, but they are restoring it and according to Domenico, it will be a synagogue again next year!
I learned that the ruined buildings all over are in fact from the bombing in 1943 and they haven't had the money to repair them yet but that's a big plan. Some buildings have been restored but they are expensive so they are not selling. He also confirmed the mafia is still a big presence and suggested most of the stuff in the markets was involved with that. Yikes? It sounds like this city 20 years ago was pretty terrible and in another 10-20 years it may be unbearably touristy...
After the tour I came back to the b&b for a few and set out again. I got my second cremino then a lemon/watermelon granita and set out for a little more sightseeing. I went first back to the royal palace because the royal apartments were open today unlike the other day, so I just paid again. Not sure it was worth it but oh well.
Then I went to Cappello, supposedly one of the best pastry shops in the city and its base the palace and was closed the other day. I had a slice of the setteveli I keep talking about. This time it was the cake version that was apparently invented here. It was delicious layers of chocolate indeed. Then I walked out to the Zisa palace through neighborhoods I'm not sure I should've been in. Zisa is the obit secular Arab-Norman building. It's mostly been ruined and reconstructed, but it was still beautiful. By the way I also learned on the tour that Arab-Norman is unique to Sicily and it comes from the fact that they used Arab artisans ti builds the buildings in Arabic style while the Normans ruled. Ok then!
Then I walked over to the cappucin catacombs, which is over 2000 mummified remains and basically the creepiest, most morbid, most uncomfortable thing I've ever seen. Truly yuck. Then I made the lengthy trek back to the b&b for a bit before having an early dinner in a while. An election is coming here in June and on my walk back a guy came up to me to hand me something. In Italian, I told him I'm American and he was like, oh sorry you have your own problems! Don't I know out my friend, don't I know it. Although I don't want to go home I think my feet are glad today's the last day of pounding!
10:00: back for the night after a lovely final evening. I should already be asleep because I have an alarm set or 3:30am but oh well. Earlier I set out and did the evening passeggiata, especially lively because it is Saturday. Of all the Italian things I love, this one may be my favorite. I love people walking around with friends and family, seeing people they know, etc. It feels like it embodies so much. Then I went to my Catania favorite FUD and had ham and cheese potato croquettes and a sandwich of porchetta, veggies, Ragusa cheese, and olive paste. Delicious as the one in Catania and by 8 there was a long waiting line for a table!!
Wandered back and there was a group of amazing street musicians and a big crowd gathered. During one of their songs a couple started dancing and the whole scene in a picture was why I love this place so much. I wandered down to Ruvolo and got a little cup of setteveli and pistachio gelato and with that, another fantastic vacation comes to a close. I saved the most walking for last, with a truly absurd 35,953 steps and 14.3 miles. I cannot even fathom the total miles walked this trip, and I am happy to not walk much for a while!!
Til the next adventure! Thanks to all three of you who have been reading!
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