10:30pm: at the b&b after a long and full day and the day is ending like it started at 5:30am, loudly. And because I am tired I expect there will be lots of typos in this post and I am sorry in advance. Anyway, I was awoken then by cheering on the street. Since I have a view I looked outside and there were people running on the streets. I have no idea what for, it was not their marathon. I later saw people walking with the shirts that said "15.30 Palermo" and I still do not know what that means. And right now there is literally drumming going on outside. It is a special night event for school kids, but more on that later.
Anyway, I had planned to take a train to Cefalu around 8:30 but since I was up I figured I might as well catch the one that left around 7:15. I took a city bus to the train station and got a croissant and marocchino - that is the first time I have had one of those this trip - it is espresso with a little milk and cocoa powder. The train was a much nicer one than the early ones I had taken at the begining of the trip, and it arrived right on time just after 8am. It went right along the water the whole way and was quite pretty. Once in Cefalu I made the short walk to the water and walked around the city, which was just waking up. It is very pretty with walls and lookouts along the water, beaches, crystal clear water, medieval looking streets, and plenty of restaurants and shops for the tourists.
Made it to the main square and into the Duomo, one of the most important Arab-Norman churches in the area built in the 1100s. Unfortunately, the main mosaic that is so important is covered and undergoing restoration. I wandered around the town a bit and then went to the cloisters, which have old colums presumably taken from elsewhere. Actually, so did the interior of the church. There is also a castle above town but is apparently so steep that it takes half an hour of stairs to get up there. I trully cannot fathom.
Caught the 11am bus to Castelbuono, the capital of the Madonie mountains, which I believe is a national park. This is an adorable little medieval town with one main drag and a lot of offshoots. Luckily this castle is easy to reach and houses the city's museum. Checked that out and wandered the town a bit.
Then what I really came here for - lunch at Nangalarruni. I had made a reservation but did not really need one. They are known for using local products, especially mushrooms. I wanted to try everything on the menu but I decided to go for the "small" tasting menu. It was four courses - roast beef and smoked pork loin slices, spring veggies and mushrooms with ricotta under a gratin of smoked cheese, homemade pasta with spring veggies and mushrooms in I think a ricotta sauce, and a local dessert that was like a milk gel flavored with cinnamon. And delicious local wine and water and the whole thing came to only 29 euros. RIDICULOUS. What a dining experience.
The other good thing was that the food came out really fast so I was able to make the 2:30pm bus rather than wait until 4:40pm. The bus also had some beautiful views of the towns it passed and the water. It arrived back in Palermo just after 4pm. I was not hungry but a famed gelateria is right near the station so I got a combo of pistachio/dark chocolate and almond. It was cheap, only 1.40. Then I walked over to the botanical garden, which is neat but kind of a huge unkempt mess and I hate to say it but there are a lot of dead plants there.
Caught the bus back and took a bit of a rest at the b&b. Set out a little before 7 and heard some music coming from a main square. I believe I said it early on in the trip but when you hear something in Italy you follow it. There was a whole setup with a stage and other activities. It appears it is some special event for students called "notte bianca" - I encountered one of those the first time I went to Rome, they are special evenings in Italy when people are in the streets and things stay open later. Hence the drmming I am hearing outside. And the streets are packed with families.
Went for an early dinner at Bistrot Bisso, which is in an old bookshop. Everyone said to get there by 7:30. I did and had no trouble getting a spot but by 8, forget it! I had cous-cous, traditionally served with seafood in Sicily, with veggies, and then a veggie "stack" - potatoes and tomatoes and mushrooms just kind of stacked up. That and water and wine all totaled 12.50. Cheap!
Wandered back to the opera house where another stage was set up and kids were performing. Took some pictures and went back to Lucchese where I got a small dark chocolate/cinnamon gelato.
Today's absurd totals: 30,192 steps and 12.01 miles. And I still cannot believe I have signed up to do a walking tour tomorrow morning. I also cannot even believe tomorrow is my last day!!
No comments:
Post a Comment