5:45pm: at the b&b for a little snack and rest before dinner. I feel like I didn't accomplish much today although that probably is not really true. I took it easy in the morning and had breakfast. Then I went over to the Ballaro market, the last of the three markets I had not yet been to. It is like the Capo but I think contains more junk in addition to all the food and goes on for longer. These markets seriously just ramble on and on through little alleys and streets.
Made my way back near the opera house and went into the Archaeological museum. Only the ground floor was open due to renovations and it was free, but it was still impressive. And finally a museum where there were other people inside!! They had some really intact statues and other artifacts, including a lot from Selinunte, one of the major sites I was not able to fit in unfortunately. There were a bunch of students there asking if you wanted additional explanation.
Then I went to nearby Focacceria Massimo for lunch. It was already starting to get full with local worker types just after noon. It was surprisingly non-touristy considering you can see the opera house from their streetside tables. I had another pane e panelle and this time also added potato croquettes. Carbs on carbs on carbs. Yes please. The filling sandwich and bottle of water totaled only 2.30.
Then meandered back towards the cathedral area as I had reserved a spot on the 2pm bus to Monreale. I decided to go the tourist bus route again rather than try to navigate and deal with the city buses. Also the stop was closer. I had a lemon and strawberry granita on the way. I am going to miss these refreshing fruit slushes on warm days!
Caught the bus, which took 20 minutes to get out of central Palermo alone - their traffic makes LA look not that bad! Got there and they give an hour and 20 minutes to see this important church complex. Again, it is all gold mosaics from the 1100s and various times after that and is truly stunning. There was some idiotic tour guide using a green laser pointer to explain the mosaics to her group. I mean, REALLY? Speaking of tour groups and how much I hate them, earlier in the day a German man paying too much attention to his whisper rather than where he was walking on the street literally walked into a school-aged girl. Come on.
Anyway, after wandering around the church several times I took a quick peek at the surrounding town, which did not seem too special, and the bus left at 4pm and then I just walked back to the b&b for a break before dinner. After what I saw last night I made an 8pm reservation somewhere - at least I think I did!
10:15pm: back at the b&b after a delicious pizza dinner at PerciaSacchi, where I did in fact succeed in making a reservation. It is an upscale slow food type place that uses special flours for its pizza dough and things like that. I had a "Trapani" style pizza, which was like the pesto from the traditional pasta dish deconstructed so it was pesto, tomatoes, a cheese called tuma, and toasted breadcrumbs. Yes they put breadcrumbs on a pizza that has a bread crust. I also had chocolate cake for dessert and I just realized I did not have gelato today! That is OK, the three from yesterday make up for it? I think my pants are tighter despite all the walking....
Tomorrow I have an ambitious day planned and restaurant reservations for lunch at one of the most famous restaurants on Sicily. We shall see what happens!
Today: 26,404 steps and 10.5 miles and I am starting to really second-guess signing up for a walking tour on my last day Saturday.....
10:15pm: back at the b&b after a delicious pizza dinner at PerciaSacchi, where I did in fact succeed in making a reservation. It is an upscale slow food type place that uses special flours for its pizza dough and things like that. I had a "Trapani" style pizza, which was like the pesto from the traditional pasta dish deconstructed so it was pesto, tomatoes, a cheese called tuma, and toasted breadcrumbs. Yes they put breadcrumbs on a pizza that has a bread crust. I also had chocolate cake for dessert and I just realized I did not have gelato today! That is OK, the three from yesterday make up for it? I think my pants are tighter despite all the walking....
Tomorrow I have an ambitious day planned and restaurant reservations for lunch at one of the most famous restaurants on Sicily. We shall see what happens!
Today: 26,404 steps and 10.5 miles and I am starting to really second-guess signing up for a walking tour on my last day Saturday.....
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