Sunday, December 30, 2007

Traveling Solo: Why Not?

A lot is written about solo travel. There are websites, books, you name it. I just want to share my own experience and why I think traveling alone is great. I feel like my experience was a relevant one because I took a 6-week trip and 3 weeks of it were with someone else and the second 3 weeks were on my own.

Lots of people seem averse to traveling alone. I can completely understand why. You're going to a place that might be far away, where you don't speak the language. Lots can go wrong and if you're with no one, there's no one to help.

All of this is true. I think those of us who travel alone must take some extra precautions that we might have to worry about as much if we are with others. And it does cost more - you can't split meals or hotel costs (and a single room or double for one is not half the price of a regular double or twin room) or taxis.

But I think the positives outweigh the negatives. Don't get me wrong, traveling with my friend was great. We pretty much wanted to do the same things, had similar budgets, etc. But at the end of the day, it's still 2 or more people who have to agree, be on the same schedule, pretty much do the same things, etc.

For me, the biggest thing that traveling alone offered was somehow, a deeper connection with the places I went. Instead of talking to my friend, I had to talk to locals, I had to keep myself entertained by watching the locals more closely. Instead of sitting down and talking to her, I sat down and looked around at what was going on. I absorbed more. In Italy especially, I found myself starting conversations with people next to me at restaurants. Many of them were American, but I still learned a great deal. I found waitstaff in restaurants particularly attentive as well. Perhaps it was coincidence, but people were so nice, everywhere I went, that I can't help but think that people paid extra attention to me because I was alone. Maybe not, but it's a feeling I got.

I think, at least some places in America, people are apprehensive to do things alone. You don't see that many hotel rooms for one - especially not in touristy areas. However, in Europe, almost all hotels have single rooms available. These cities are safe, much safer than the big cities in the US and other places. I never felt unsafe anywhere I was in Europe, even after dark. Traveling is easy, because of train travel, just buy 2nd class tickets and meet other people traveling alone.

Ultimately, I'm not saying people shouldn't travel together. If a group of friends want to travel together, they should. But if the choice is going alone or not going, I think there's nothing that should keep anyone from going alone as long as they can afford it. Take the extra precautions, do the research, etc. But go, see the world, and you might even get a better experience out of it in the end anyway :)

Saturday, December 29, 2007

Money-saving tips for eating

As I mentioned in one of my first posts on the blog, and of course as we all know, money is a crucial aspect of traveling - both in the planning and while we are actually at our destinations. Here are some money-saving tips I discovered along my European travel. With the dollar getting worse by the day, those of us who like to travel on a controlled budget need all the help we can get! Some of these are more common sense than anything else, but I'll just mention all the ones I can think of and hopefully something might help you save a little money on your next trip when it's meal time!

  • Eat big lunches. We found, especially in Mediterranean countries, a lot of restaurants offered multi-course lunch specials for around 10 euros or even less. The few times we did this, we were so full we could eat lighter at dinner (and avoid a late afternoon snack), when things are more expensive.
  • Ask for tap water (in countries where it's safe, of course). In Europe, the norm is bottled water. But some places will give you tap water, if you ask. Good phrase books tell you how to ask for it in various languages. Also, if you want to try wine, drink the house wine. Sometimes it was so cheap, and even cheaper to get a small carafe or bottle of the house wine than a glass!!
  • Eat street food. Many cities are famous for certain kinds of street food. NYC and Copenhagen have the hot dog. Brussels has fries and waffles. Just to name a couple. For just a few dollars you can have a delicious - and authentic - lunch or snack. We made a lunch one day in Brussels out of a big cone of the best fries you've ever had, a waffle, and some free samples from the chocolate shops. Total was about 5 euros, but the memories of the deliciousness are priceless!
  • Take your food and drinks standing up and pay attention to other potential surcharges. In several countries including Spain and Italy, there are extra costs for sitting or sitting outside. In Barcelona, several restaurants' menus listed a full 15% surcharge for eating outside and in tapas bars, it is cheaper if you sit and eat the bar than have a table with a waiter! In Italy, if you take your coffee drink at the bar instead of sitting down, it will cost less, and it is the same in some restaurants. Sometimes the same is true if you take your food for takeaway - especially at bakeries and delis.
  • In many countries in Europe, the stuff they put on your table is NOT free!! In Portugal, they sometimes put olives, cheeses, breads, and all kinds of other things on our table. If you don't touch it, you don't pay. But if you eat one olive or one slice of bread, you pay. In Italy, if they put the bread basket on the table, you pay whether you want it or not. So learn the customs of the country you're going and if necessary, tell them you don't want whatever it is they're trying to push on your table.
  • Eat as much as you can at your hotel's breakfast. I noticed that in my hotels that had good buffet breakfasts, I ate lunch later, which let me save some money on the most expensive dinner. It also saved me money I might have spent on mid-morning snacks. If you can, you can even snag a piece of fruit or pastry for later!
  • Visit the local markets. Not only does visiting local markets and supermarkets introduce you to the places' cultures and let you see how the locals really live their daily lives, so you can see the products they use, their prices, etc., but if you buy some snacks to keep in the hotel room and to take with you on sight-seeing you can save a lot of money - especially on water! Buy a couple of really cheap bottles in the supermarket, take a small one with you in your daybag every day, and save a ton of money on bottled water when you get thirsty during sightseeing! Sometimes, local markets and delis have great sandwiches (in Italy, they also sell fresh pizza!). For just a few dollars you can get a great breakfast or lunch and eat like the locals! This is also great for traveling days: pack a meal for the plane or train with stuff from the local market or supermarket and save on the high costs in airports and train stations!My cheap and tasty gourmet picnic lunch in Vienna!
  • As a corollary to the previous tip - picnic! I went to the great Naschmarkt street market in Vienna and for about 10-15 euros, I picked up enough snacks and goodies for 2 full picnic lunches and loads of fresh, yummy, local snacks that lasted me for days! (see picture, click for larger). Plus, picnicking also gives you a great - FREE - way to sightsee... people-watching!
  • Order the daily specials. In a lot of places, there's a blackboard with the things that are fresh that day. You can save a lot of money because these are the house dishes, the dishes using the freshest in-season ingredients, so they are also probably the best ones too. I admit I'm not too adventurous an eater and did not partake in many of these specials, but I did notice that they were often less expensive than regular menu items.
  • Don't over-tip. A lot of places around the world, the tip or "service" is included. Check the menu or if in doubt, ask your waiter. If it's included, there's usually no need to tip extra. My rule of thumb was to leave an extra Euro with my payment if the service was good. If you tip the way the locals do, you're fitting in better AND saving a little money with each sit-down meal!
  • This one may seem obvious - but get off the beaten track and away from the tourist areas. Food costs a lot less - and is often better and more authentic - if you go where the locals go. Ask the people at your hotel for tips on places that offer good quality at good value - they live there and are in the tourism business, so they often have great tips and suggestions for places to eat.
  • You do not HAVE to have a multi-course meal! This is something I notice that comes up especially in Italy, but other places too. For some reason, a lot of people think they have to order a pasta and a main course or an antipasti and a main course. I don't think that's necessary at all and I got no funny stares for not ordering it. Several times I ordered a salad and pasta or just a pizza or a pizza and a little antipasto from the bar (aka, some olives or vegetables, not much), or a light appetizer like bruschetta or fettunta (traditional garlic bread) that only costs a few euros. No one will think less of you, and they don't do doggie bags, so you should only order what you want to eat, not what you think is expected.
Hopefully something here helps you save a little bit of money next time you enjoy a meal on vacation. Of course, this just scratches the surface of ways to save money, but they're some of the things I learned in my own experience. Please comment and share your own money-saving tips and soon I'll post some more tips about saving money in your planning and sight-seeing!

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Deciding Where to Go

It's a big world out there. And we are all different. That's why I think there are no rules about where to go. Some people say "HOW CAN YOU GO TO EUROPE AND NOT TO PARIS" or "HOW CAN YOU GO TO THE USA AND NOT NEW YORK"... you get the point.

If there's one thing I learned in planning my own long trip, the most important you thing you can do in deciding where to go and what to do is what will make YOU happy. Guidebooks, blogs, message boards, travel websites, etc, are all important resources for planning a trip. You can get great advice, tips, and information. Without TripAdvisor and the Rick Steves graffiti wall, my trip would literally have been less good, I'm sure of that. There are things and places I learned about on these sites that made my trip truly special. On these and other forums, people offer fantastic advice, locals give their inside tips, and people share what they have learned through their own travels - both successes and mistakes. You can prepare for potential scams or pitfalls and acquire the confidence to go on your trip and not worry about the small things so that you can enjoy your trip and not worry about the small stuff once you're there.

But I'd like to caution against actually planning where to go and how long to stay based on what other people tell them. Instead, think about who you are. Are there cities or countries you have always dreamed of going? Is there a theme (art, churches, architecture) you'd like to stick to? What kind of traveler are you - do you like to be on the go all the time or would you rather have a "home base" to stay at over a few days and take day trips. Do you only care about seeing big sites, or would you rather spend a longer time in each place to wander, relax, and really experience? The answers to these and other questions are ones only the specific traveler can answer for him or herself and no amount of advice from others can make that person's decision. When I was in the planning phases of my trip and asking questions/gathering opinions on various message boards, someone actually asked me if I'd ever looked at a map of Europe, because I was skipping places he/she thought were important, all the while ignoring the fact that maybe, just maybe, I had done extensive research and was just trying to get ideas for tweaking.

My advice is to sit down and start making lists. Answer these - and other - questions for yourself. Decide what kind of a traveler you are and see where that takes you. Start with how much time you have and be realistic about what you can see in that amount of time based on what kind of traveler you are. Based on the length of time you have and budget, decide where to go. And work from there. Pick countries, then cities. Research transportation and logistics. Decide how long to stay in each place based on who YOU are and what YOUR interests are.

Of course, it's impossible to make perfect decisions about traveling to places we've never been before - if we had all the answers, the traveling itself would be largely pointless. But I think if you take all the information and advice out there but tailor it to your own personal preferences, you are a lot more likely to make the right decision than if you just blindly listen to what other people tell you. I don't think it matters how experienced someone may be; if their interests are different from yours, their advice can only be so valuable.

Happy researching!

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Hotels

So to take a break from some of the city discussions of the past few posts, here's something a little different, yet equally as important to a trip - the hotel! I'm one of those people, like many many of us, who sees a hotel as not much more than a bed. After all, why travel all that way just to spend hours and hours in the hotel! But still, a great hotel can really add to my experience of a city, and a really bad hotel can really hurt it. This is not a rant like some of my previous posts, per se, but merely observations and my opinions about the phenomenon of hotels while traveling.

This is vastly oversimplifying, and I realize that, so try to bear with me a little. I feel like there are essentially 2 types of people where hotels are concerned: People who want to feel like they're at home and people who want to immerse themselves into the local culture. The first type stay in Hiltons and Marriotts down to Holiday Inns and Best Westerns and Ibises (which are like Red Roof Inn etc). The second type like smaller hotels, bed and breakfasts, places that have a little of the local flair and culture, perhaps a little worn, places that embrace the location's unique culture. Neither type of person is right or wrong - we're all different (though I happen to be the latter). The problem that sometimes arises is when one type stays in a hotel typically associated with the other type.

It's funny to read hotel reviews sometimes. For example, I LOVE TripAdvisor; I booked all of my hotels pretty much solely based on the reviews there. But it's funny to read what some people call bad or good. Some people think a little stain on the floor means a place is nasty or that if a blanket is slightly worn it is in horrible disrepair. Just like every other decision we make in life where we take other people's advice, I think it's important to read these reviews with a grain of salt. For me, a slightly rude owner or a small breakfast wouldn't be reason for me to lower my rating of a hotel, as long as it meets my qualifications as described below. For others, these would be important. It seems like people can sometimes save themselves a poor experience if they did the research beforehand and found a place better suited to their personality and desires. For example, in our hotel in Brussels - the lovely Brussels Welcome Hotel - we Istanbul Room at the Brussels Welcome Hotelstayed in the Istanbul Room, which receives many negative TripAdvisor Reviews. However, I found the room warm and inviting and the worn bedspread did not bother me (see picture at left, click for larger).

A few things are particularly important to me in picking a hotel. Price of course. But also location, location, location. A couple of things important to me are amenities (is breakfast offered, is there an elevator, if it's in a warm climate, is there a/c - a MUST for me), etc. A private bathroom is essential for me. Other nice things are free wireless or internet access, cleanliness, how quiet the hotel is, etc. Things like the size of the room are irrelevant to me. My hotel room in Venice (see picture below, click for larger) was not much larger than my apartment's walk-in closet, but it was clean, comfortable, in aTiny Room at Venice's Ca dei Dogi, but comfy and adorable perfect location, had a/c, nice staff, great breakfast, and all the modern amenities everyone would need (even a mini-fridge, which is always a plus for me so i can sample some local produce) - so for me it was a nearly perfect hotel. Someone else I suppose might feel claustrophobic. This is why reviews are so very valuable.

Something else on the topic of hotels that I never really thought of before my trip is how much the location of your hotel can actually shape your experience of a place. My hotel in Florence was across the river and a bit away from the historical center. Thus, I barely saw the area around the Duomo. My hotel in Rome was near the Forum and Colosseum, so I walked past both multiple times and I walked through the nearby Piazza Venezia many times - yet I saw someone on a message board ask once where Piazza Venezia was (for the record, there's nothing really of note in this big square, it's just a way to note how the hotel location actually shapes what one sees in a city) but talking about Piazza Barberini - a square I never once saw during my stay in Rome. My hotel in Venice was right around the corner from Piazza San Marco, so I saw it at all times of the day and got to know the streets around it quite well. These are just a couple of examples; the list goes on and on. So I think something I learned is that for the cities I hope to return to one day, I'll try to stay in hotels that are in different locations from where I stayed before. That way, I won't just be returning to a particular city, but since I'll be staying somewhere different, I might increase my chances to see something completely new!

I found hotel research to be tiring, frustrating, and exasperating. Trying to find those "hidden gems" in each city, nice hotels that are affordable, is a little like finding a needle in a haystack. But they're out there, in every city. And I think it's worth the search. Some of the hotels I stayed in throughout Europe were so lovely and so reasonably-priced that my experience at each place really did add to my experience or understanding or enjoyment of a particular city. I realize not everyone has time to undertake such a time-consuming process, but if you do, I do think it's well worth it in the end.

Happy hotel hunting!

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Just to be perfectly clear...

I received a comment tonight that was extremely hurtful, so much so that I cannot ignore it. It was a personal attack on myself, so I will not publish it (It's one thing to disagree with me or constructively criticize what I say, it's quite another to go at me personally without saying much else of substance, and I don't feel I have any obligation to publish things like that on my own blog). This blog is just a collection of my opinions and experiences and sharing things I learned in my travels in the hopes that someone else might read it and think about things before their own trip. I'm not pretending to know everything about anything - not the places I've been or the people I met along the way or really anything at all. It's just my own opinions and experiences. I thought that, this being a blog and all, these kinds of things would be quite obvious.

This person told me that my commentary on tourists versus travelers made me an ignorant American. Anyone who knows me who reads this blog - and I know there are a few - know that breaking the "ignorant" or "ugly" American stereotype is something very important to me, and those who know me know how hurtful that statement is to me because of how hard I tried to put on a good face for Americans when I was in Europe. Can I single-handedly change the world? Of course not, and I've never pretended that I could. I don't know where this commenter was from, but I must assume not from the United States - in which case, I have to say that blindly calling a stranger "ignorant" is, arguably, just as ignorant as I was accused of being in the first place.

But honestly, I don't even see how calling me an "ignorant American" based on my Traveler vs Tourist post makes any sense, since what I do in that posting is encourage people to go out of their comfort zones and spend the time to really be able to experience and appreciate the cultures of the places they visit. I realize my opinions may be controversial, and I have no problem with that. But considering the whole goal of the post is to share with people my opinions about how to better experience other cultures - in other words the complete opposite to what an "ignorant American" does - I fail to see how that post evidences me being an "ignorant American."

And quite frankly, when a person from Lisbon tells me my description of his/her city is one of the best he/she has ever read by a non-local, that means a lot to me, and it means that I am succeeding in my desire to NOT be another ignorant American. Because isn't the whole point that an "ignorant American" is incapable of experiencing other cultures, they think there's nothing beyond how we live here? Clearly, this is not who I am. I'm many other things and I have many many imperfections, but an ignorant American is not one of them.

It makes me sad that I even had to say this stuff at all. It goes without saying that I wouldn't expect everyone to agree with me. What would be the point if we all agreed? I love comments and would love to hear from people who disagree with me. But I don't think there's any need to personally insult a blogger who wants to share their experiences with whomever wants to read them. I'm trying to help people here, not hurt them. And just to be even MORE clear, I never said that Americans are the only ones who are tourists instead of travelers. Anyone from any country can give short shrift to a city that deserves more - I saw it with my own eyes when I was overseas. Anyone from any country can be a "checklist tourist" who runs around and sees only the museums but ignores a place's soul.

This is not a political blog and as a proud American I won't stand by and let people assume things about Americans - myself included. There are ignorant people from all over the world, not just America. But there are also wonderful travelers from all over the world, including America. I'm just writing my own thoughts down on this big internet.

Thanks. Grazie. Obrigada. Gracias. Merci. Danke.

How Venice Stole My Heart

Sometimes, in life, you get so excited about things, you set such high expectations, that there's no other option but impending disappointment. It happens with movies and people and restaurants. And places. You psych yourself up to love something, and then when you see it or experience it, there's no way it can live up.

Well, for me, that was not the case with Venice. I was so excited for Italy. So SO excited to go to Venice. Besides the fact that I heeded everyone's advice and pushed Italy to the end of my trip so as to avoid it in August, I kinda wanted to save the best for last. So I get off that train and step outside.... and BAM. You are instantly thrust into Venice. Tourists and locals whiz by. Boats chug chug chug along. It's a little chaotic, a little frenetic. But oh, it's beautiful. And like nothing I've ever seen or experienced. I was there. ITALY!! VENICE!!!!!!!!

But would Venice disappoint me? You read in magazines and guidebooks and on message boards that Venice is an amusement park and people hate it. That Piazza San Marco is so congested you can't enjoy it. That the alleyways are so busy it's hard to even get through. That the beautiful Murano glass is mostly imported from China, that the canals are dirty and that they smell, that the food is bad and overpriced and that the people are rude.

Is ANY of that true?

Sort of. I think it just depends on how you choose to deal with it. I only went to Piazza San Marco early in the morning before the throngs of daytrippers and cruisers arrived, and at night after they left. At both times of day, this vast and awe-inspiring square is down right quiet and enjoyable. I went off the beaten track for my meals. I took less traveled routes and wandered through less traveled squares and streets (you can't get too lost - it's a bunch of islands after all - and there are handy yellow signs pointing you to the major landmarks anyway). And I ignored the trash in the canals.

Yes Venice is busy. Yes there are people there who want to take advantage of tourists. But this goes back to my Traveler vs Tourist post. I think the distinction is perhaps most important in Venice. People who bother to REALLY experience this city, to talk to the REAL locals, they love it. The lack of cars, the tiny little alleys that suddenly open up to tiny little piazzas where kids kick the soccer ball and remnants of a city's ancient history still stand unaffected by tourists.... this place is magic, pure unadulterated magic.

Something else that these cruisers and daytrippers miss is Venice at night. It becomes a truly magical place. From the dueling mini-orchestras on Piazza San Marco to the dimly lit alleyways and 'streets' Venice hits its stride after dark. You feel like some big mean man could come out and get you at any moment. But no one ever does. And because there are no cars, Venice is peaceful at night. So very very peaceful.

Perhaps I should end with something a Venetian himself said. The tour guide at the Jewish Museum, who happily walked three of us around the Ghetto for an hour, said something like "I hope you take a little bit of Venice home with you and that you are not just a tourist." That touched my heart, my soul. This is a city where the Synagogues have red curtains because Venice's color is red - this is a city where cultures were able to live peacefully with tolerance for centuries. To come for a day and swing through the main couple tourist sites is doing yourself and the city such a huge injustice. This is a city undeniably in decline. The population is shrinking. There ARE people who sell horrible imported glass that all looks the same and the restaurants along the tourist thoroughfares are overpriced and don't look good. But I think tourists are the people who have largely caused all this. If we don't shop and eat at these places, they will go out of business. Over time, tourists have settled for this, and this willingness to settle has lowered the standards and in turn this has driven the locals away. And it's sad, really really sad.

To the wonderful Venetian in the Jewish Ghetto whose name I cannot remember, I did take a piece of Venice home with me; in fact, it's permanently emblazoned on my soul.

Go to Venice, PLEASE go to Venice. But please, stay a few days. See it at 8am and 10pm and every time in between. Walk around. Get lost. Sit in a piazza. Buy a handmade mask from one of the few artisans left. Don't just see Venice, EXPERIENCE it. Maybe your life will change, too :)

Saturday, December 22, 2007

Underrated Brussels

For me, including Brussels on my trip was a no-brainer. I love chocolate, I love waffles. How could I skip Brussels? Then I started reading message boards. People seemed to hate Brussels. It's dirty, there's nothing to do there, it's boring, blahblahblah. Rick Steves pushes nearby Brugge instead - Brussels isn't even in his "Best of Europe" book.

Is Brussels the most exciting city in the world, or even in Europe? No of course not. But it's quaint, small and accessible, charming, and quirky. Where else can you make a lunch out of fries (look at the picture, click for a bigger one, just look at them!!!), a waffle, and chocolate samples and say it was among the better meals you can remember in a long time? I like to think of it this way. Any city that has as its symbol or 'mascot' a statue of a little peeing boy (Manneken Pis) must be a fun place. And let's not forget two of its more notable museums - the Musical Instruments museum and a museum for Comic Strips. How can people say this place is boring!?

And I think Brussels IS fun. Would you want to spend weeks there? Probably not. But the 2-3 full days we spent there were quite enjoyable indeed. We got to see the spacious palace - open during the summer - for FREE. The Grand Place is breathtaking and, though quite different, it rivals any of the lovely piazzas in Italy. Many of the chocolate shops give out samples - and let me tell you, the chocolate IS different. You will never eat Hersheys or Nestle again.

As for dirty, see my entry about Lisbon for more about my opinions on cities that seem "dirty" - because to me, "dirty" is not a bad thing. To me, "dirty" equals real. Brussels is real. People love their beer and their mussels and their fries and their chocolate. Yes, there are seedy things. The enclosed market area near the Grand Place with creepy people selling a lot of leather and hip-hop clothes was bizarre indeed. But there are also cool cute things and very upscale shops in the nearby Sablon area.

Brussels is probably not worth making a special trip for. But if you're going to go to Paris or Amsterdam or other places nearby, I think Brussels is worth a couple of days, if for no other reason to wander around, eat like a pig, and just be happy. I don't have as many deep or profound things to say as I did for Lisbon or Copenhagen, but I still think Brussels is misunderstood and underappreciated. So give it a shot!

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Copenhagen's Quirkiness

I don't know about anyone else, but before I went to Copenhagen, I had a view of Denmark and Scandinavia, its people, and its culture, in my mind. Tall thin good-looking blond people who are reserved, classy, and only eat (raw?) fish. And of course the Danish, ahhhh the Danish (And you know I mean the pastry right?)!

Is any of this true?

Well, sort of. Lots of the people are beautiful and blond and tall and thin and there is lots of fish on menus, much of it raw or pickled. But that's really just the beginning. Copenhagen is also funny, quirky, beautiful, fascinating, and charming.

In some ways, Copenhagen reminds me of London. The people have this long rich history of their monarchy and they have a love/hate/love relationship with the ruling family. They also don't take themselves too seriously - we all know Brits have among the best sense of humor around, but I found the Danes I encountered to be equally as funny and self-effacing. On my tour of the Christiansborg Palace - a functioning palace for the Danish monarchy right in the historical center of Copenhagen, surrounded by a moat with a bridge and everything - the tour guide, this adorable old woman, lovingly made fun of her country's royal family at every turn. Perhaps the single most visible trademark of the city is the Little Mermaid statue. To celebrate its birthday - yes, Copenhagen celebrates her birthday - they have as many women as years old the statue is (in 2007, 94) jump into the water and form the numbers. As you can plainly see, this is a fun place.

This is just one example.

At the entrance to the Strøget - the main stretch of pedestrianized shopping streets all connected together, there is aTivoli Gardens lit up at night golden cow hanging above into the street. I'm not sure if it is a privately-owned fixture or something from the city, but that's pretty funny. This is a city that honors hot dogs as its street snack on nearly every corner, and has statues not of kings and queens but of Hans Christian Andersen. Heck, this place is so classy and cool and fun that even its amusement park - one of the oldest in Europe - is both fun AND pretty, with a lake, gardens, and it's gorgeously lit up at night (see picture, click for full-size).

Adding to Copenhagen's quirkiness is its almost bizarre bridge of old and new. Its train and public transport systems are incredibly modern (the subway cars don't even have drivers!) and Danish design is as cool and ultramodern as its neighbor Sweden. And 7-11s are ubiquitous (in fact, the only place I went to in Europe where I even saw a 7-11, let alone dozens of them!), the main City Hall Square has buildings completely lit up like huge electronic advertisements covering the sides of buildings. Yet at the same time, Copenhagen's age and history shine through. The architecture is beautiful and stately, and the palaces are so numerous that you almost stumble upon them. And perhaps most importantly, to me, the Danish people seemed exceedingly proud of this rich and unique history. And rightfully so.

Copenhagen is expensive, do not get me wrong. Denmark has not adopted the Euro yet, and at only about 5.2 Danish Krones (down from about 5.5 when I was there in August 2007) to the dollar, everything is expensive. A "bargain" for a decent hotel might be about 800 DKK, an "average" price for a sit-down dinner at least 100 DKK. Even a hot dog on the street is about the equivalent of $4-5. Ouch. But there are free things in Copenhagen. Its most famous landmark - the statue of the Little Mermaid - is always free. So is a lovely and humongous botanical garden and the poignant and thought-provoking Museum of Danish Resistance. Finally, the bizarre and curious little "freetown" Christiania is always free to walk through - but I wouldn't say it's particularly family-friendly.

But what Denmark lacks in affordability, it makes up for in charm, kindness, beauty, and uniqueness. The people are friendly, helfpul, unfailingly kind, and all speak English. Yes, the people eat lots of fish - much of it raw - but theDanish fried hot dog food is as diverse as the people and encompasses every cuisine and type of meat. You can't leave Copenhagen without trying at least one kind pølse - aka, hot dog. The rød (or fried on a griddle) was the one I most enjoyed (see picture, click for larger). What other culture provides hot dog carts throughout the city as a means of public assistance for those unable to keep other more professional jobs? While I may not agree with the ultra-socialist political culture, this is a special and unique place where people know how to take themselves lightly, have a good time, but all the while remain refined and classy.

delicious Danish pastryAnd by the way, in Denmark, pastries aren't called Danish. They're called Wienerbrød - or Vienna Bread. You can tell a bakery (or konditori) by the golden pretzel hanging outside. And let me tell you, you've NEVER tasted anything like it (see picture, click for larger). If you can afford it, get yourself to Copenhagen asap. I, for one, cannot wait to go back.

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

To MR

I just wanted to thank you for your wonderful comment. Hearing those things from a local means so very much to me. It reaffirms my desire to keep traveling, to keep learning, to go back to Lisbon (and the rest of Portugal!) to learn more, but most of all it lets me know that my desire to spend my days in each city soaking as much as possible is leading me to success. To hear that I "got it" from a local is really just heart-warming for me and I am so grateful that somehow, you stumbled upon my blog and gave it a read.

Obrigada!

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Lisbon's Mystique

Instead of my rants of the past few days, over the next few days, I'm going to tackle a few of the places I went that I found particularly interesting or feel like I have something new and/or insightful to say about them. I'll start with Lisbon, Portugal!

There's something about Lisbon that I didn't realize while I was there. But after I started going to other places and now that I've been home for a while and have had time to reflect, I've decided that Lisbon, for a big capital city, has quite a mystique. It's not particularly older than any other major big city in Europe. But it feels a lot more raw - that's really the only word I feel like describes what I'm trying to say.

I was there right at the beginning of August. The weather was pristine, the sky so so blue. Perfect tourist time. Yet I feel we saw very few tourists, relatively speaking. OK, we ate in a lot of "touristy" restaurants because they were right near our hotel and we were lazy. And not seeking out a little fado club or little restaurant off the beaten track is my one major regret for my time in Lisbon, but Lisbon is raw. It's a little dirtier, not in the sense of actually seeing dirt on the street but it felt like a city that wasn't "on show" as much as Rome or Barcelona or Amsterdam. The locals outnumbered tourists almost everywhere. It's less expensive; there were less signs of world corporate domination.

Thing is, Lisbon has everything a world-class destination has. Great people, great food, great culture, great museums, GREAT public transportation, beautiful blue beaches are a half hour away by train, good shopping, lots of history, and much more. We wandered through the old Alfama district (seen in the picture, click picture for larger image), which is all white and where the streets are narrow sloping alleys and staircases, and it was a ghost town, except for this one little area where local people were doing a photo shoot.

So I just have to wonder, why don't people go there more? It's a relatively short flight from Britain and it's no further from the US than London. Perhaps it's because it's slightly smaller and thus a little harder to go to, but so? Plenty of other places require a change in planes and people go there a lot. I guess it's one of those chicken/egg problems. But I suppose part of what makes Lisbon so great is the fact that it IS still somewhat of an undiscovered tourist frontier. In that sense, I hope it doesn't change.

Part of me wants to tell everyone GO VISIT LISBON!!! It's a great alternative to busier and more expensive places and because it's so small and accessible, you can stay for a few days and really truly get a good feel for the city. But part of me wants to say, STAY AWAY and let one city in Europe avoid its fate of an over-traveled trite, ubiquitous travel destination. I'm torn. But absolutely, if you like that Southern Europe passionate Mediterranean type of thing and want to go away but can't afford Spain or Italy, give Lisbon a try. You probably won't be disappointed.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

"fitting in"

Something that seems to come up on travel discussion forums a lot is how to "fit in" when you're in a particular place. Don't wear jeans, people say, No white sneakers. No socks. No shorts. No this, no that.

Why? I don't quite understand. I mean sure, it is nice to not stick out like a sore thumb. And when people do wear the things I listed above - especially when it's a family all doing it - it's quite easy to pick out Americans - but so what? If a Spaniard or a Belgian were to come visit Houston, would I expect him or her to wear tight jeans, a big belt, a cowboy hat, and boots? OK, I'm exaggerating. But as soon as we open our mouths, they know we're Americans anyway. And that's OK! If we're aware and open-minded and respectful of the local traditions and customs, there's no reason to hate us. In 6 weeks, in 9 major non-English-speaking cities, I faced almost no animosity for being American. In fact in many places people were excited. "Americana!" I got. In one restaurant in Florence, the waiter wanted to know where I was from and he tried to imitate a Boston accent. People don't hate Americans they hate Ugly Americans. But it's so so so easy to not be one!

So, I argue, why does it matter if we, as travelers, fit in? Sure, I liked it when people came up to me and asked me questions in Italian, it was cool. But did it make or break my vacation? Of course not. I didn't take jeans and white sneakers not to avoid sticking out but to be able to pack light, REALLY light (I'll talk about packing light some other time).

So I say, wear what will make you comfortable. These places must be seen on foot. Unlike America, Europe is a culture of walkers. Cities are compact, and sometimes their best treasures are tucked away down and alley or side street. I think a comfortable traveler is a happy traveler, and a happy traveler is more likely to be polite and open to new experiences. Sure, buy some pieces of clothing while you're there or something, but to change who you are just to fit in? I don't understand. I'd think that the Italians or Spaniards would much rather see an American family in denim shorts and white sneakers who tries to speak a little of the language, who is polite and eager and open-minded than some woman in all black with stiletto boots who couldn't be more of a bitch, who wants a watered-down decaf coffee and thinks it's wrong to hang laundry out on one's balcony (Yes, someone actually said that on a messageboard, I can't make that crap up).

If people spent half the time they spend on what to bring and what they'll wear instead on packing light and carefully and the other half learning about the culture to which they're going, there'd be a lot fewer obnoxious tourists lugging around their way-too-big and way-too-heavy suitcases and there'd be a lot more travelers whisking around with their little rolling carry-ons, on their merry way from one place to another, not sticking out no matter what they have on, because they have put in the homework and done the time to make sure they will be comfortable and confident wherever they are going.

Friday, December 14, 2007

Traveler vs. Tourist

This is something that's been bothering me, ever since I set out researching my trip. Now that I've gone and returned and had time to reflect upon it all, it bothers me even more.

Miriam-Webster's defines a traveler as one who makes a trip or a journey. It defines a tourist, however, as merely one who makes a tour, typically for pleasure. What's the point, you may ask? Isn't this just a needless play on semantics? Maybe. But to me, the difference is huge. And I say, the difference is important: if you're only going to be a tourist, why go at all?

Tourists go to Venice and only see Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge. They go to Florence and only see the Accademia and Uffizi Galleries. They don't get lost, they don't wander into the tiny little color-laden churches or the restaurants with no English menus. They get shipped through sites in groups of sardines listening to earpieces instead of the people around them, they ask for decaf coffee in Italy and food without butter in France.

Today on a messageboard - a busy, helpful, popular travel messageboard - someone asked "is it possible to see the Accademia and Uffizi in a day? That's all I'm interested in seeing in Florence"

......WHAT?

Surely that person wasn't serious. How can you travel all the way from the US to FLORENCE, ITALY, and only want to see two art museums!?!?!!? It's really beyond my comprehension. I mean sure, if you like the art, you should see it. Of course. If your time is limited and you really can only spare one day and really feel like you must see the art, ok, fine, I can accept that. But to come out and actually say, point blank, I don't care about the rest of the city???

Seriously, why bother.

I think it's easy to become a traveler. Take public transportation instead of taxis everywhere. Walk. Get LOST. Learn 5 words of the local language, plan a day or two extra time in each city to just experience it. Wander. Talk to locals. It's not that hard. It takes almost no effort, except perhaps for going outside one's comfort zone a little. Don't go to a place to see it, go to a place to FEEL it, to experience it, to live it for those days. If we could go to these places and treat them like a journey and a learning experience instead of a checklist, maybe we'd all understand each other just a little bit better.

Next time you are in a place, no matter where or what time of year, and you are on a main street or thoroughfare think it seems too busy or too "touristy" - I implore you - walk 3 blocks away from it in any direction. See what happens; see what you learn.

Thursday, December 13, 2007

More on Italy

Saw this article in the NY Times today. And it made me sad. So so sad. I loved Italy because there was no Starbucks, no 7-11, no Gap. It made me sad when I saw a Disney Store and a McDonald's in Venice. Italy is great BECAUSE of its small businesses, its attention to quality and detail, it's passion, its friendliness. Why should this change? It's not like it's a backwards society where people are treated poorly, where rights are violated, where women or people of certain religions are persecuted. There's nothing about Italian culture that the rest of the world would consider "wrong" - why should it change?

I don't understand that all the things I loved about Italy, that other travelers - and note I say travelers and not tourists - love about Italy, are the same things that appear to be killing it. I think it's tragic that a culture is diminishing, that a country's people are becoming unhappy and poor, simply because it yearns to hold onto its magic, its history, its mystique, its culture. In a world that's becoming smaller and more homogeneous - at least in corporate terms - every day - I greatly respect a country like Italy for largely repelling the corporate giants. There's something innocent, peaceful, comforting about it. That you can still find the little old ladies making pasta and the handblown glass and the handpainted ceramics.

Obviously if the people are getting poorer and the nation's debt is increasing, it cannot be ignored. Who knows what the solutions and answers are, if there even are any. All I know is, it's sad to think that a country has to essentially give up who and what it is to even stay afloat.

I wonder what we travelers can do. I will try to do my part by buying as many Italian products as I can. And I will try to get back as soon as possible.

Sunday, December 9, 2007

Italy is taking over my life!

Has anyone ever been to a place that you loved, that hit you so hard, that when you got home, you found that place slowly taking over your life? This is what Italy has done to me. It is taking over my brain one day at a time. Look at this.

I make pasta more. I make pizza more. I spent an outrageous 4.99 to buy a pint of gelato instead of a fancy baked good to celebrate passing the bar. I buy prosecco and make bellinis. I want an ice cream maker, just to make my own gelato. I want a stovetop espresso maker and milk frother, just to make my own cappucini. I find myself perusing Amazon and the LA Public Library for books about Italy I can take out. now that I have some of my trip photos on my wall, I look up and see Venice and Florence in their most beautiful glory and sometimes I even have dreams about being back there. I found a contest run by a camera manufacturer to win a trip to Tuscany. You can enter once a day and I put the contest page on my Bookmarks Toolbar so I won't forget to fill it out every day. I'm crazy, right? I was there for 2 weeks. How did it affect me this much? Am I the only one?!

In fact, in the month since my last post, my focus has totally changed. All I want to do is go back to Italy. I want to explore Tuscany for a week, I want to see the Cinque Terre, I want to see everything and anything I can afford (both in money and time). I figure I could save enough money to go to Mexico as early as next year, but if I keep saving I can probably go to Italy Spring 2009 assuming I can get a job sometime soon. How can I think about going to Mexico if I can go to Italy that soon?

I opened my travel account with $300. Then I got a gift from my aunt and uncle for passing the bar, some money from my parents for Chanukah that I asked for to add to my trip coffer, and some odds and ends here and there. Total already is $675. Then I decided to list all of my law school textbooks on half.com and in 2 days have sold almost $100 worth of books. It's going straight to the trip account. I've also decided that instead of making deposits for rent/bills into my checking account like normal, I'll put it into the savings account. Sure the interest is paltry, but hey if I can get an extra dollar or two, that's an extra gelato or cappuccino in Italy. I can transfer funds to the checking account when necessary and keep track of the explicit travel funds to make sure I never dip into that ever ever.

Surely I'm not the only one. Right.......?