Florence November 1 Blog & Pictures

Last sight-seeing day:(

Pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/debstah1/sets/72157622622391231/


10:30am: in the B&B in Florence after a bit of a hectic morning. Woke up at 6:15 and finished packing to get ready to take Renee to the Certaldo station and myself to the Florence airport to return the car. Went down to leave just before 6:45am and there was ICE ON THE DAMN CAR. And no scraper, of course. So I turned it on and we had to wait a few minutes. Finally it melted enough and we were on our way. Made it to the Certaldo station without much problem except that I took a wrong turn and drove a little bit into a ZTL so I hope I don't get a ticket for that - I didn't see any cameras in this town.

October 28 Blog and Pics: Florence

pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/debstah1/sets/72157622738271734/

8:00pm: back at the farmhouse after a long but enjoyable day in Florence. Woke up at 6:30am after finally sleeping ok, and we set out for Certaldo station by 6:45. Luckily we'd scoped it all out the day before and knew where to park. Found it today with no problem and hopped on our 7:18 train to Firenze SMN station.

Arrived a bit late because the train just stopped in the middle of nowhere for a while, but finally arrived and set off for the Accademia. Caught breakfast at a bar on the way and made it shortly after 9am. No wait at all, so we went in and saw the David. It was 10 freaking euros because of a mapplethorpe exhibit, as if anyone cares. Instead of the cool video renderings of the David that were there the first time I went, it was a bunch of his photos and drawings. Boooooring. Anyway, we wandered a bit through the musical instruments collection (the permanent one, which was not even remotely as nice as the temporary exhibit I was lucky enough to catch a couple years ago), then we set off for the San Lorenzo area and the Medici chapels. Like 2 years ago, the big chapel of the princes was still under major reconstruction but it is still impressive to see the utter wealth the Medicis possessed. I also love, in Michelangelo's chapel, how the notes he left on some of the back walls behind the altar are still preserved. Most people don't even go back there to see it.

After that, we wandered through the San Lorenzo market and over to the Mercato Centrale, which is a complete wonderland of fruits, vegetables, salamis, meat, fish, cheese, olives, wine and oil, and anything else you can imagine. We spent a good hour walking around there and then set off for the real historical center. I found the Global Refund office and got my measly $22 in tax refund for the jewelry I bought yesterday. I just now have to get it stamped at customs and stick it in the mail from the airport and I am good to go. Went into the Orsanmichelle church and found I Fratellini, a literal sandwich window. They sell about 30 kinds of sandwiches, all 2.50. I got salami and artichoke and it was on a great warm crusty roll. Then we found my beloved Perche No gelateria and got a cup. Then we set off for the amazing and always awesome Ponte Vecchio, where I resisted a strong urge to buy these lovely and delicate 140 euro earrings.

Wandered through the Oltrarno a little bit and then made our way over to Santa Croce. There's a big gold shop there too and I found a pair of earrings almost as lovely that were 89 euros, but she gave me a 15% discount so they were 76. Not sure why, but they are two round circles, one in yellow, and one in white gold. And they have a bit of a diamond cut so they are nice and glittery. Not as lovely as the others, but close enough for half the price. Of course, that brings my earrings haul from this trip to 6 pairs, and I think I will stop here. Usually I am too lazy to change my earrings that often but I guess I will have to start!

Went into Santa Croce, much of which is actually being restored. It's still always interesting to see Michelangelo's and Galileo's and Machiavelli's tombs, among others, and the Leather School is amazing - really top-quality handmade works and you can see many of the craftsmen making items. Too bad a fairly small purse was 330 euros :(

Anyway, just before 4pm, we took a taxi up to Piazzale Michelangelo, because we were hoping to catch a 5:10pm train back to Certaldo. Cost was just under 10 euros but it saved a ton of time. We got there right at the right time as the sun was hitting the city. It's now my third time up there and it still does not get old at all. Took MORE pictures and caught a 4:30 bus down to the station and made it with about 10 min to spare on our 5:10 train.

Had trouble once again getting out of Certaldo back to the farmhouse because the street it wants me to take every time is closed for construction. But after going in a couple circles we finally made it and just had some cold cuts and bread for dinner, simple Italian style eating.

Tomorrow will be a long driving day - more than 3 hours total probably. Still haven't had to fill up the gas tank - it seems like it should get over 800 kilometers per tank, which is pretty darn impressive. Will fill up tomorrow just to be careful and I bet we won't have to do it again!

Videos Added

Added 5 short videos from Florence, October 16 to this set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/debstah1/sets/72157622481432437/

And 2 from Parma, October 20, to this set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/debstah1/sets/72157622585379989/

Trip Day 3 Florence Oct 16 Pics finally up

http://www.flickr.com/photos/debstah1/sets/72157622481432437/

Ugh, just looked at the forecast for next Wed-Sat or so and it is not good, in fact it is really quite AWFUL :( Cinque Terre could be fun :(

Italy 2009 Trip Day 3 - Friday October 16

7:30am: Wow, these beds are hard. But still, I slept not too badly considering the time change. Probably about 7 hours total. Looks like a chilly but clear morning in wonderful Florence! Very much looking forward to a cappuccino for breakfast and then out for a very packed and full day!

2:10pm: Been going nonstop for about 6 hours and now I need a rest. Breakfast at Bar Donnini was delicious - 2 fresh pastries, a cappuccino and "orange juice" - I use the quotes because, sorry Italy, juice is one of the few things you don't really do very well. Anyway, a very nice "authentic" breakfast indeed. And there was a steamed milk heart on my cappuccino <3

Set on my way to Church of Santissima Annunziata - in the square of the same name, designed I believe by Michelangelo. Pretty church and one gorgeous side chapel. Some guy got really mad at me for taking a picture? Not someone who worked there but a tourist or person praying. But there were no signs forbidding it. I know it's a place of worship but I'm not one of those disrespectful people who uses flash or is even loud about taking pictures.

Made it to Palazzo Medici-Riccardi only to find that the Chapel of the Magi is closed today, bummer. But it meant the rest of the palace was free so I wandered around and took a few pictures.

Stumbled upon the San Lorenzo market and I bought a scarf/pashmina that is "supposedly" part cashmere and part silk, made in Italy, for 5 euros. It's probably total crap, but it's purple and cute and helped on this breezy but stunningly beautiful day.

Around 10 I got to "Dante's Church" - which I had tried to go into last time but it was closed. This time, I managed to catch it in the few short hours it's open. I was right in remembering a leather workshop right across from the church, but it was not open :(

Walked across the ponte vecchio and saw all the amazing glittery goodies. There was one pair of earrings I would absolutely love, but we'll see. I think they're in white gold, which would obviously be a lot more expensive than silver. But, they're so pretty...Then I found the famous chocolate shop and bought a couple of dark bars, they look so tasty.

I just kept wandering around, through the Oltrarno - found the Francesco shoe shop and they had nearly nothing in my size and the woman spoke no English. So I kind of got lazy and didn't feel like bothering. Some things I think I could BS my way through, but probably not purchasing shoes.

Made it to Palazzo Davanzati, the Church of Santa Trinita, and then Church of Santa Maria del Carmine - where the famous Brancacci Chapel lives. You're supposed to have a reservation but most books say if you're alone you can walk right in so right before noon I walked right in. Student rate for 18-25 year olds is 3 euros, otherwise 4. She said "it's 3 euros for students"... Oh, ok! Do I really look so young? :(

Wandered around a bit while I worked up my appetite, and found a little leather shop. Got a cute lavender wallet for 27 euros.

Found Trattoria Sostanza for lunch at about 12:45. Got the chicken breasts in butter I had read so much about. OH. MY. God. Just look at the picture when I can post it. I'm sitting here, now at 3pm, absolutely stuffed still. This is such, what I'd consider, a "typical" Florentine/Tuscan type of place. Large tables seated randomly with strangers. Small hand-written menu, really warm service, and awesome awesome food. On my way out, the guy shook my hand and was like, see you soon! So good.

9:10pm: Sitting in the B&B's tea room, stuffed again and a lot poorer after a fun afternoon of shopping and more eating. I may have bought not one but two purple leather purses, and two pairs of earrings. Not any one thing was particularly expensive, but with a 1.5 exchange rate, it adds up. Oh well, who knows when I'll ever be back. Good thing my suitcase was about 1/3 empty!

After finally finding that leather store across from Dante's church (open this time) and wandering the Ponte Vecchio, I got a couple bus tickets and caught Bus 13 up to Piazzale Michelangelo, around 5pm. I could see this view at sunset every single day of my life and never get tired of it. I did the extra little hike to San Miniato and made it in time for the 5:30pm vespers. I inconspicuously sneaked a couple videos, and by the time I left the church, the sun had started to set a bit more and I took some pictures that will hopefully turn into good panoramas.

Caught bus 12 back down - and unlike 2 years ago did not get lost! Got off right across the Ponte Alle Grazie and walked around the Santa Croce area for a while before dinner to work up an appetite. I decided I was going to go back to I Ghibellini - a pizzeria I went to two years ago. I kind of got lost but after about 20 minutes wandering around I finally found it and was starving. I thought I was being good by ordering just a crostini and pasta… But… Then the crostini came out and was a HUGE slice of bread piled high with tasty things. So I left half of it so I'd have at least a little room for my pasta - homemade fresh pici - like really thick chewy spaghetti. It was delicious and I ate as much as I could possibly get down. I got a small cannella (cinnamon)/chocolate gelato at Perche No on the way back to the B&B but I couldn't even finish it!

Off to Bologna tomorrow!

Pictures coming soon

Pictures: October 15

http://www.flickr.com/photos/debstah1/sets/72157622593120412/

Enjoy!!!

Florence Is Not Just a City of Museums!!

I need to get this off my chest. FLORENCE IS MORE THAN JUST MUSEUMS!!!! I realize I touched upon this in my controversial Traveler vs. Tourist post, but I feel I need to say more after seeing several questions on message boards like "do I need to go to Florence?" "is Florence worth the time?" "what's there to do in Florence?" - you get the point.

Florence is such a wonderful city. These people who take a day trip from Rome or who just sweep in and see the Uffizi and the David. I really don't get it. I don't even LIKE art, but I still loved the heartbeat of this city, the undercurrent of the Renaissance. It's everywhere. It fuels this city and makes it special. Not taking the time to experience this is doing both the city and the traveler a big disservice.

There are so many wonderful things about Florence. The architecture, the food, the gelato, the shopping. There are several open-air markets every day - the Loggia near the Ponte Vecchio and the San Lorenzo market around the San Lorenzo church. The Central Market (see picture at left, click for larger) is a double-decker market with meat and cheese and wine and a cornucopia of luscious fresh produce. The Ponte Vecchio gold shops are a dazzling sea of gorgeous 18 karat gold. There's pottery, leather, designer clothes and shoes, souvenirs, you name it. There are so lovely churches that range from the tiny to the large. Gorgeous art and sculpture is literally inescapable, sometimes even resting on the OUTSIDE of buildings.

Let's talk about the food. Everyone knows that Tuscan food is great, I hope. But really, it is WONDERFUL. More meat-heavy than what I found in either Venice or Rome, I had lovely chicken and beef dishes several times in Florence. The Bistecca alla Fiorentina - a t-bone steak flame-grilled to rare perfection, is lovely. Country Tuscan dining puts people next to each other at big long tables. This makes dining at these little trattorias not just a meal but a real true cultural experience. And the wine, if you like wine, there are enotecas at every turn, and in restaurants the house wine is often down right cheap. Tuscan food is about simplicity and quality ingredients. The olive oil alone is like nothing I've ever had before, just pour it over toasted bread and you have an amazing delicacy. And the list just goes on and on!

Let's also talk about the gelato. It's an artform just as much as the art in the museums. Mousse gelato, fruit sorbetti and gelato, you name it, the gelaterias in Florence are famous for serving some of the freshest and most creative gelato available.

How about just the fact that Florence is just simply BEAUTIFUL!!! You walk along the river, see the stately dome of the Duomo rise above, and if you look in any direction and you can't escape the awe-inspiring Tuscan Hills (see picture, click for larger). It's also inordinately gorgeous at night. I think few experiences in life could possibly match watching the sunset up on Piazzale Michelangelo as it sets on a Michaelangelo-designed staircase, or sitting in the lovely San Miniato al Monte church listening to the Gregorian Chants or just simply looking down on the city as another day sets. It is a view, it is a feeling, it is a memory that I know I will never ever forget (see picture below, click for larger).



Florence is also compact and easy to get around. Its bus system is excellent and the main areas of interest are all within walking distance. The neighborhood south of the river called the Oltrarno is less touristed and a little more "real" feeling. Florence is very safe. The people are lovely. Other museum like the Bargello (a statue museum in an old jail that seems painfully undervisited) and the Pitti Palace/Boboli Gardens are lovely and worth a visit. Even within the oft-visited Accademia, where the throngs of visitors and tour groups surround the David, there is a truly lovely and unique exhibit of Italian musical instruments that I thought was worth the Accademia price of admission in itself. Better yet, while all those crowds surrounded the David, I had the musical instruments exhibit almost to myself.

I don't understand. the 4 or so full days I spent in Florence weren't nearly enough. I want to go back, I want to wander the area around the Duomo, which I somehow kind of missed. I want to taste more gelato and try more of those wonderful little restaurants. I want to buy a leather purse and some more lovely jewelry unlike anything I've ever seen in the US. I want to check out some of the little churches down narrow alleys. For anyone who reads this who's planning a trip to Italy. Florence is more than a couple of world-famous museums. It can be busy, but you can make reservations early in the day to get those sights out of the way before the daytripping crowds arrive. Get away from the congested city center and you see a place that lives and breathes its beautiful past.

I dare you to go and stay a few days and really get down and dirty and experience the real Florence and come back and say you didn't like it.

Traveler vs. Tourist

This is something that's been bothering me, ever since I set out researching my trip. Now that I've gone and returned and had time to reflect upon it all, it bothers me even more.

Miriam-Webster's defines a traveler as one who makes a trip or a journey. It defines a tourist, however, as merely one who makes a tour, typically for pleasure. What's the point, you may ask? Isn't this just a needless play on semantics? Maybe. But to me, the difference is huge. And I say, the difference is important: if you're only going to be a tourist, why go at all?

Tourists go to Venice and only see Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge. They go to Florence and only see the Accademia and Uffizi Galleries. They don't get lost, they don't wander into the tiny little color-laden churches or the restaurants with no English menus. They get shipped through sites in groups of sardines listening to earpieces instead of the people around them, they ask for decaf coffee in Italy and food without butter in France.

Today on a messageboard - a busy, helpful, popular travel messageboard - someone asked "is it possible to see the Accademia and Uffizi in a day? That's all I'm interested in seeing in Florence"

......WHAT?

Surely that person wasn't serious. How can you travel all the way from the US to FLORENCE, ITALY, and only want to see two art museums!?!?!!? It's really beyond my comprehension. I mean sure, if you like the art, you should see it. Of course. If your time is limited and you really can only spare one day and really feel like you must see the art, ok, fine, I can accept that. But to come out and actually say, point blank, I don't care about the rest of the city???

Seriously, why bother.

I think it's easy to become a traveler. Take public transportation instead of taxis everywhere. Walk. Get LOST. Learn 5 words of the local language, plan a day or two extra time in each city to just experience it. Wander. Talk to locals. It's not that hard. It takes almost no effort, except perhaps for going outside one's comfort zone a little. Don't go to a place to see it, go to a place to FEEL it, to experience it, to live it for those days. If we could go to these places and treat them like a journey and a learning experience instead of a checklist, maybe we'd all understand each other just a little bit better.

Next time you are in a place, no matter where or what time of year, and you are on a main street or thoroughfare think it seems too busy or too "touristy" - I implore you - walk 3 blocks away from it in any direction. See what happens; see what you learn.