Sunday, May 15, 2011

Day 8 - 5/15/11: Positano, Herculaneum, and more

9pm: having a bit of an early night tonight to try to get to bed early. So tired after another day! Woe up pretty early to catch the 8:30am bus to Positano. At shortly after 8, there were people already on the bus so I'm glad I got there early to get a seat and get a seat on the non-water facing side. To say I didn't like the bus ride would be an understatement. I hope they pay the drivers VERY WELL.

Got to Positano a little after 9 and walked my way downhill. As I was doing it I knew there was no way I was walking back up, it would either be by bus to the top, or by boat from the bottom back to Sorrento. Kept winding down, popping in and out of shops. Finally hit the “center” of town, the Bar Mulino Verde, and got a “cappuccino freddo” - basically a really good iced coffee. Worked my way all the way to the water and decided that avoiding that bus was worth the cost (13 euros) of the boat back to Sorrento leaving at 12:30.


There's not really much to do in Positano except shop and snack. In the main drag there was a little cart advertising the best lemon granita. He wasn't kidding, there were actual pieces of lemon pulp in the slush. Then a couple days ago someone had told me that I had to try the special Positano chocolate cake. So I found La Zagara and had a piece for 3 euros. And by piece I mean like about 20% of a whole cake (much bigger than this picture). Holy deliciousness. Wandered around some more and picked up a salami, scamorza (like a smoked fresh mozzarella, artichoke) panini for later and sat on the beach for a while until the boat came.

The schedule listed the boat as taking a half hour but it took like twice that. But that's OK because the ride was pretty. You could see Capri and the coast from a distance. Made it back and hopped the bus up to the station, where I caught the 2pm circumvesuviana to Ercolano. I think I dozed off on the trai na bit :/

Got to the site, which is like a 10 minute walk downhill, and got the audioguide. Started off with high hopes to see a lot of the site, which actually isn't that big but has a ton to see. It started getting humid and cloudy and my feet started really hurting so I sort of rushed through the 2nd half of the site. The walk back to the station was worse because it's uphill. I was worried I had just missed a train but a nice couple from Bakersfield had the schedule and one was scheduled to come in 15 minutes so I caught the 5pm train and made it back to Sorrento about 45 minutes later.

Came back to the B&B to relax for a while and then joined the evening stroll to Da Franco, a busy informal little pizzeria with long tables and relaxed service. I had a “side dish” of marinated olives along with a margherita pizza and lemon soda. Is there a better meal on earth? I say no ;)

Fully stuffed, I wandered back to the B&B and stopped at a pastry shop. For 1 euro I got a little sandwich cookie thing dipped in chocolate filled with chocolate cream. Except that now I'm too full to eat it so I think I'll save it for breakfast tomorrow since I plan on catching the early bus, all the way to Amalfi this time.

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