Day 7 - 5/14/11: Capri, etc.

Note: All the pics so far (not including today, which probably won't be up til tomorrow b/c there are some videos, are here)

5:45pm: relaxing in the B&B for a while. Woke up around 7:30 and had breakfast, which surprisingly doesn't start until 8:30. If there's one complaint I have about this B&B it's that. I don't want to rush around but considering the area is known for being busy and congested, it's strange that they make it hard to get an early start. Anyway, breakfast was nice out in the courtyard with a cappuccino, cake, croissant, etc.

Went down the “Ramp” to the port. you can see said ramp in one of my pictures. Basically an insanely steep pedestrian pathway. But I made it and decided I would NOT be doing it again :) Bought a RT ticket to and from Capri for 30 euros total – ouch! - and took the 9:15 boat, arriving around 9:45. 

Took the funicular up to Capri town, which was busy. It's basically a little square with streets branching out that have expensive shop after expensive shop. I didn't spend all that long there before hopping another bus up a harrowing hairpin-turning road to Anacapri. What a difference. A bunch of cute pedestrian streets with stores of all types, lots of sandals, etc. I went over to the church of San Michele with its famous painted tiled scene on the floor. You walk around it on wooden boards.

Wandered back and since it wasn't quite yet noon, the restaurant I wanted to try wasn't open yet so I wandered back to a sandal shop I had passed by – Antonio Viva. The guy was sitting out front making the sandals and it was literally piled high all over with different things – you can see what the scene looks like here on their website. I saw one right away that I liked so his son tried my feet for size, then I got to pick out the colors of the leather I wanted. I went for my favorites of course, then sat and watched him make my sandals in about 10 minutes. The older man is talking to me and asks if I've seen him on tv and that's why I came to his shop. I was like huh? Apparently in Giada's Capri show a few years back, this is the guy she bought sandals from. Who knew? Anyway, a few minutes, a couple of strap adjustments, and 45 euros later, and my handmade sandals were ready!

Went back to the restaurant that sounded good in my Lonely Planet book – Il Solitario – and it was open. You walk down a path and in the back there is a huge garden. NO one else was there!!?!? Anyway it was a fantastic setting with reasonable prices in this very touristy area so I went with it. And it was nice to be away from the big cafes on the squares and have some peace and quiet. They have a whole separate menu book for Pizza! But I went with the ravioli caprese, big puffy clouds of homemade dough filled with cheeses and topped with tomatoes. The waiter said it was completely homemade and it tasted it. Another nice plus was no cover charge so the total was like 13.50 euros. Considering I was by myself most of the meal I had good service so I tipped a bit extra.

Wandered around and found the path that surrounds Villa San Michele, which is supposed to be a nice museum but I have a lot of museum-going coming up so I figured I'd snap some pictures of the amazing view and then head back. The bus from Anacapri all the way back down to the marina wasn't for a while so I wandered around more, bought a token magnet and then got in line for the 2:15pm bus. To say the bus ride was hellish would be an understatement. They pack these tiny teeny buses in like sardines and then they wind speedily down these twisty-turny roads, having to stop all the time for taxis and buses and cars going in the other direction. NOT FUN. But made it down a little before 3pm and got on the 3:20 ferry back. Took the local bus back up to town and got a lemon/strawberry sorbetto combination and then came back to the B&B to rest for a bit before dinner.

9pm: Back in the hotel room. Wandered around a bit and then ate at Da Gigino, the restaurant managed by the same people as my B&B. By 7:30 there were no tables outside! I had the delicious and enormous gnocchi alla sorrentina, which is homemade little gnocchi baked in a dish with tomato and mozzarella. Let's just say it's different from the one in a bag in Trader Joe's freezer section. Joined the evening passeggiatta on Corso Italia, the main drag here. It's pretty unreal that they actually close the main road through town down every night around 7:30. I mean, they literally close it down to traffic, that's how many people participate! Made a bit of a circle and stopped in a pastry shop up the way from my hotel. They had little mini torta caprese – the flourless chocolate almond cake I had wanted to try here. Also bought a little cake for tomorrow morning since I think I will be heading out before breakfast.

Side rant: When I walk people eating outside having french fries, I want to walk up and hit them. :)

As I was about to go into my B&B for the night I heard loud POP POP POPPING. Pretty sure it wasn't gunshots, I went down around the corner to the public overlook park and lo and behold there was a fireworks display going on. Awesome. Awesome.

Now I need to do some laundry. :(

Tomorrow I brave the Amalfi Coast road (google it :/) and see Positano. Hopefully I can also fit in an afternoon trip to Ercolano (Herculaneum), a town like Pompeii that was smothered by the ancient volcano.