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12:45pm - sitting on the roof of a boat waiting for it to depart at 1. woke up again around 6:30 and took every advantage of my b&b's bathtub. Had breakfast, which was an absurd array of homemade cookies and cakes made by the owne Giuseppe. A few minutes later he brought out a chocolate and pear crumble, he said, that combines two classic Mantovano desserts, crumbly sbrisolona and chocolate and pear cake. Fruit desserts are not typically my thing but it was good.
I appear to be the only person staying at the b&b so I talked with Giuseppe for a while. He used to run a hotel but closed six years ago when the economy went bad because he was losing 20,000 euros/month. Ouch. He couldn't find a job after that so he opened the b&b two and something years ago. Despite being at the top of the tripadvisor rankings he said in the first year the b&b was only 16% full and this year only 25% - ouch again. He expressed various frustrations about the local government being closed minded and that people don't always rate his b&b well bc of service, which I can't imagine being any better but I guess if someone is expecting a hotel...?
Anyway after that lengthy and somewhat depressing talk I went to the main palace, palazzo ducale, which was the enormous home of the Gonzaga family, which ruled Mantova like the medicis ruled Florence. Pretty but lots of ruined frescoes. Also the most important rooms are closed for repairs after an earthquake.
Went over nearby to the little and stunningly gorgeous bibiena theater, where Mozart played at age 14. I never would've gone in if it wasn't included on the museum combo ticket I bought but I'm so glad I did!
Walked a few min to a deli recommended in he lonely planet book. Told her I wanted picnic food and she made me a sandwich with famous local salami and local cheese. Got some olives with it, stopped at a bakery for some olive bread and chocolate salami for dessert, and I had the perfect picnic lunch of local goodies. Walked over to the river and got a picnic table in the shade in the midst of a sea of school children who were so polite. One asked me to open her bottle of juice and a couple others asked if it was ok before playing with toys at the table.
4:45pm - boat tour was lovely. Not real exciting and probably 200 school kids of various ages but it went around the lakes and river. Started falling asleep on the way back, oops!! Wandered back and stopped in the tiny but free archaeological museum. No one else was inside sadly.
Bought a lemon soda - first of the trip what! - and made it back to the b&b for some rest, which was smart because a pretty severe storm rolled in about ten minutes after I came back! So I'm resting and catching up on tv while the storm rolls through.
10:30pm - well that turned out to be a longer evening than anticipated! Went out around 6 and wandered for a while. It had stopped raining but was chilly.
Decided to eat at osteria Fragoletta on a little square away from the main stuff. It was almost empty when I got there around 7:45 but quickly filled up fast. I had a half portion of culatello, which is the best part of prosciutto, and I decided to try the most famous local dish, tortelli di zucca, pumpkin filled ravioli. Honestly not my thing and too sweet but the pasta itself was amazingly well made and it was still good to try the local specialities.
Got a gelato at a place on the way back of dark chocolate and gelato with the sbrisolona cookies in it. Yum.
Got back to the b&b shortly after 9 and Giuseppe was making a lard/cornmeal cake for breakfast tomorrow. I will have to eat fast because my train is at 8:50. After his computer problems yesterday he said he lost a lot of email from the past 2.5 years of the b&b. Yikes. Ended up talking with him for quite a while about cultural differences, politics, and the like. His eyes about bigger out of his head when I told him I get 10 days paid vacation a year. Second b&b owner in a row to react like that.
He is a really sweet person but really sort of depressing. I hope for him he can keep the b&b going with his delicious baked goods but also find another job. He said this building belonged to his grandfather but he might have to sell it sometime soon. :(
Anyway. I feel mantova was the sleepy quiet before the Milano storm that starts tomorrow. I am renting an apt. through airbnb so hopefully that all turns out ok and hopefully finally the wifi is better!!!
Total walking today: 19988 steps, 7.9 miles. And this was my take it easy day!! Actually my feet aren't hurting too badly. Yay!!
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