Woke up early, got breakfast and caught the 8:37am train from Varenna to Milan. Train was full of commuters. It arrived a little before 10 so I had some time in Milan's station til my 11am train to Torino. That was a high speed train and nearly empty. It goes 250/km most of the way!
Caught a taxi to my b&b and the cabbie got a little lost so he would only take 10 euros (meter said a little more). Checked into my b&b which is in a palace with frescoes in the courtyard and all the rooms in the b&b have a common balcony. There are also two common rooms with kitchens. So nice.
The b&b is righ off a stick straight pedestrianized street lined with palaces leading to the main square, lined with about five other palaces. What a pretty city!! Got a slice of focaccia for lunch followed by a dark chocolate/cinnamon gelato combo that was huge for 2€.
Found the tourist office and waded through the myriad of combo city cards they offer. Bought the one that includes public transport because it was only 6€ more. Now I just have to figure out the transport system!
Wandered around a bit and tried to find the royal gardens but it appears closed for work. Too bad. Started getting really tired so I went into the duomo, which is boring except it houses the Holy Shroud. Wandered back to the b&b to do the last bit of laundry and take a long rest.
7:45pm - sitting in a lovely little square at agnolotti & friends - yes a very strange name - but I read the pasta was good. Strangely for me I want almost the entire menu. It all sounds so good. Grissini, the long thin Italian breadsticks, are from this area. But nothing out of a package here! They are light, airy, and crispy and I can't stop munching.
Went out after my rest around 6:30 and wandered more of the city center. Holy crap this city is pretty. Also, verrryyyy little English spoken here. Friends we're not in rick Steves land anymore!! And the difference is noticeable. In tiny Varenna, English was almost the only language spoke by people walking by. The bar in the morning at breakfast where the barista knew everyone by name was a saving grace. Here it's Italian all the way. This restaurant has an English menu but no one is speaking English and the waiter is not responding to me in English. Hurrah!!
10:30pm - back at b&b. Dinner was an interesting chickpea soup followed by artichoke agnolotti (ravioli) with crushed pistachios on top. So delicious!! After I ate I was waiting to use the restroom and the waiter asked (in English) where I was from. I hope he asked because I paid with a credit card that doesn't have a chip. Anyway he said my Italian was pretty good so yay!!!
After dinner walked around and took night photos and got a gelato at a place I had read about - Gianduja - the flavor invented here - and coffee with chocolate shavings in it. Smaller than the one from earlier today but extremely creamy and great flavor.
I had very high hopes for Torino and so far it's living up to it! Tomorrow will be a number of museums and the (apparently) biggest food market in Europe!!
Total walking: 23,959 steps, 9.54 miles
I'm exhausted so pictures will have to wait until tomorrow.
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