Wandered a few minutes to the Rialto market, which is both produce and seafood. Lively morning scene. Kept wandering around the San Polo area in back alleys, across bridges, etc.
Had an 11:00am appointment to observe glassmaking with the outstandig Mauro Vianello. Born and raised on Murano, he told me the story (while making a glass clownfish, naturally) of how his father made him get an accounting degree and he gave it up because he hated it and wanted to make glass instead. He focuses on sea creatures because, he explained, they are colorful and you can't make a realistic yellow dog. I told him he should do that anyway if he wanted. Anyway, bought a funny glass octopus to cap off a lovely hour with Mauro. He told me he estimates 90% of the glass stuff sold in Venice is from China. What a freaking travesty. Makes me so angry when the throngs of tourists go in those shops.
Made my way back towards the Rialto Market with perfect timing to cobble together a cichetti lunch. Cichetti is Venice's version of tapas, but cheaper and a bit classier. Went to Do Mori and had a couple of crostini and a baby artichoke and a glass of prosecco, then down the street about 15 steps to alla Ciurma to have two croquettes - one was ham and cheese and the other was an artichoke wrapped with speck and fried. Delicious. And of course another glass of prosecco. And the best part that I was the only person in the place who: 1) spoke english 2) was female and 3) was under the age of about 50. Locals place for sure! Both stops total cost just over 10 euros.
Crossed the Rialto Bridge after eating and made my way closer to San Marco for the first time since I arrived. You know you are getting closer when the people multiply tenfold and the shitty souvenirs multiply accordingly. Wandered around a bit and went into the church, which was surprisingly not all that busy. Went up to the museum, which I did not do last time, which has spectacular views of the square below.
Kept wandering and wandering and had my first gelato of the trip. A delicious combination of chocolaet and tiramisu at the recommended Suso gelateria. Wandered some more and found the mask shop where I had bought stuff last time. Bought another one, and a magnet, because I just couldn't resist.
Literally just kept wandering around more and more, taking pictures, people-watching, etc. Made my way behind St. Mark's towards the Grand Canal and found another glass shop that makes its own items. Bought a pretty little shot glass type of thing in various shades of turquoise.
Wandered more and more back in the Rialto direction in and out of little squares and churches and across dozens of little bridges. Took the vaporetto one stop to assist in crossing the canal (there are only four bridges across) and went to the Scuola di San Rocco, which I had skipped last time. It's a bit pricey for two rooms (10 euros) but has a gorgeous collection of Tintoretto paintings that cover the walls and ceiling. they put out these weird magnifying mirrors so you can get a closer look, or in my case, a little nauseous.
And, after that, according to my fitbit, I deserved a break after over 8 miles and 20000 steps!
Still trying to upload photos but the wifi connection is simply not cooperating. I have so many that I wan to share and will get them posted just as soon as I can!
10:00pm - went back to cannaregio determined to find the restaurant I couldn't find last night - success! Ai promessi sposi is the name and thank goodness I went early because shortly after they started turning people away. Had a pasta of orecchiette and asparagus sauce that was delicious. But the best part was when an old man just at the bar having a glass of wine could sit at my table. After he finished he gave me a tiny origami hat that he made from his receipt as a thank you. I will keep and cherish it forever.
Followed dinner with a gianduja/coffee gelato combo, which made this a two gelato, three prosecco kinda day.
Walked back over to st. Marks for sunset and stayed til it got dark. Want to know the worst place in the world to have to go to the bathroom? Venice the place 100% surrounded by water, that's where.
According to the fitbit, I walked 30617 steps, 33 flights of stairs, and 12.18 miles today. O mio dio!!!!!!
All in all a great long tiring day where lots of money was spent and lots of carbs eaten. Sounds like success to me.
Pictures as soon as i can figure something out - I took several hundred today!
1 comment:
Yeahhhh debblea... prosecco at lunch. all the high fives.
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