Woke up around 6:30 to an email from orbitz informing me that my entire return flight has changed. Instead of going through Rome I will leave 90 min earlier (6:45am) and go through Paris on air France. As much as I've heard transfers through CDG are a nightmare (at least I have over 2 hours for the transfer), I'm most annoyed that I've lost my aisle seat assignments for the transatlantic flight. And that you pay a shitload of money for specific flights and they can just do whatever the hell they want anyway.
Anyway, Alessandro was kind enough to get me breakfast a little earlier to be able to catch my train. Didn't seem like anyone else stand at the b&b last night. He and I had a chat about differences in our cultures - how good waiters and cooks in Italy make enough money to support their whole families, how they don't have to worry about retirement or education savings, health insurance etc. how nice that must all be. He also said how his parents bought the apartment where the b&b is 20 years ago as an investment and how great that has been. Owning property is a very different animal in Italy. Also, I saw he had a menu from a sushi restaurant so I asked if it was popular. He said it was especially among younger Italian females trying to watch their weight. I found that hysterically funny for some reason.
He called me a taxi and helped carry my bag downstairs. He said he was impressed at my packing and that I'm the first American he's ever met who packed so well. I took that as a huge compliment!!!! He, like Stefania in Venice, was so kind and said it was great getting to know me. I wonder, do other guests just not talk to b&b owners? I mean there are other good reasons to stay in little b&bs - less expensive, often better located, etc. but getting to know the owners is just as important and how sad if most others don't take advantage of that.
I remembered something else from my restaurant rant yesterday. All it takes is one table of Americans in a place and they are the ones you hear, even from across the restaurant. Happened in both Venice and Verona so far. Are we really that much louder??? Also places tend to give you hooks to hang your jacket, they would simply never hang them over their chairs.
7:00pm - people-watching on a lovely evening in a little park til it's time for dinner. Arrived in Mantova with no problems and walked from the station to the b&b. It wasn't far but took me about 20 min since i had no idea where I was going. My room is large and has a separate private bathroom next door. Bathtub!!!!!!! Oh what a beautiful thing.
Realized a lot of sights are closed on Mondays so I wandered around and got my bearings as well as saw a couple of the main churches, which are very ornate inside as this used to be an important and rich city.
Walked down a bit outside the center to an out of the way trattoria, Due Cavallini, where I sat outside on a lovely shaded patio and was for sure the only English-speaking person there. Had "stinco," which is a roast pork something or other. Delicious. Also had mixed vegetables, and i don't know why I bothered, and a quarter liter of the house white, which was sparkling. Very nice relaxed lunch.
Kept walking south of the center to palazzo Te, one of the only things open. This one room, the room of the giants, is incredible. It's an architectural optical illusion and painted in one scene all around and up the ceiling. Never seen anything like it. And the one picture I snuck on my iPad doesn't even begin to do it justice. 
Stopped in another smaller palace that houses the city museum on the walk back. I was the only person inside. Sad.
Came back, got a gelato from Rosa, dangerously down the street from my b&b, got a delicious dark chocolate/caramel biscotti combo, and went to the b&b for a rest. I was sitting in the common area where the wifi is better and Giuseppe the owner came and started having problems with his computer and windows 8. I tried to help him but had no idea what was wrong. Poor guy, hope he can fix it!
Around 6 I went out and wandered around town again and down to the water. Mantova is surrounded by three lakes and there are parks and path along the way. Lots of people running, biking, and enjoying the nice evening. It felt well into the 70s before but has cooled down now and feels quite lovely. I think tomorrow I'll do a boat tour on the water, hopefully the weather stays ok!
10:00pm - back after wandering and a delicious dinner at ochina Bianca. Had agnoli (like ravioli) filled with beef, which were delicious fresh pasta in a ton of melted butter. The pasta was so yellow from the eggs. Followed that with the local sbrisolona crumbly cornmeal almond cake/cookie dessert. After dinner, walked in the main squares and took some night pictures.
Total walking today: 25,342 steps, 10.08 miles!
Pictures will have to wait til tomorrow - connection here is rather slow as well :(
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