Friday, October 16, 2009

Italy 2009 Trip Day 3 - Friday October 16

7:30am: Wow, these beds are hard. But still, I slept not too badly considering the time change. Probably about 7 hours total. Looks like a chilly but clear morning in wonderful Florence! Very much looking forward to a cappuccino for breakfast and then out for a very packed and full day!

2:10pm: Been going nonstop for about 6 hours and now I need a rest. Breakfast at Bar Donnini was delicious - 2 fresh pastries, a cappuccino and "orange juice" - I use the quotes because, sorry Italy, juice is one of the few things you don't really do very well. Anyway, a very nice "authentic" breakfast indeed. And there was a steamed milk heart on my cappuccino <3

Set on my way to Church of Santissima Annunziata - in the square of the same name, designed I believe by Michelangelo. Pretty church and one gorgeous side chapel. Some guy got really mad at me for taking a picture? Not someone who worked there but a tourist or person praying. But there were no signs forbidding it. I know it's a place of worship but I'm not one of those disrespectful people who uses flash or is even loud about taking pictures.

Made it to Palazzo Medici-Riccardi only to find that the Chapel of the Magi is closed today, bummer. But it meant the rest of the palace was free so I wandered around and took a few pictures.

Stumbled upon the San Lorenzo market and I bought a scarf/pashmina that is "supposedly" part cashmere and part silk, made in Italy, for 5 euros. It's probably total crap, but it's purple and cute and helped on this breezy but stunningly beautiful day.

Around 10 I got to "Dante's Church" - which I had tried to go into last time but it was closed. This time, I managed to catch it in the few short hours it's open. I was right in remembering a leather workshop right across from the church, but it was not open :(

Walked across the ponte vecchio and saw all the amazing glittery goodies. There was one pair of earrings I would absolutely love, but we'll see. I think they're in white gold, which would obviously be a lot more expensive than silver. But, they're so pretty...Then I found the famous chocolate shop and bought a couple of dark bars, they look so tasty.

I just kept wandering around, through the Oltrarno - found the Francesco shoe shop and they had nearly nothing in my size and the woman spoke no English. So I kind of got lazy and didn't feel like bothering. Some things I think I could BS my way through, but probably not purchasing shoes.

Made it to Palazzo Davanzati, the Church of Santa Trinita, and then Church of Santa Maria del Carmine - where the famous Brancacci Chapel lives. You're supposed to have a reservation but most books say if you're alone you can walk right in so right before noon I walked right in. Student rate for 18-25 year olds is 3 euros, otherwise 4. She said "it's 3 euros for students"... Oh, ok! Do I really look so young? :(

Wandered around a bit while I worked up my appetite, and found a little leather shop. Got a cute lavender wallet for 27 euros.

Found Trattoria Sostanza for lunch at about 12:45. Got the chicken breasts in butter I had read so much about. OH. MY. God. Just look at the picture when I can post it. I'm sitting here, now at 3pm, absolutely stuffed still. This is such, what I'd consider, a "typical" Florentine/Tuscan type of place. Large tables seated randomly with strangers. Small hand-written menu, really warm service, and awesome awesome food. On my way out, the guy shook my hand and was like, see you soon! So good.

9:10pm: Sitting in the B&B's tea room, stuffed again and a lot poorer after a fun afternoon of shopping and more eating. I may have bought not one but two purple leather purses, and two pairs of earrings. Not any one thing was particularly expensive, but with a 1.5 exchange rate, it adds up. Oh well, who knows when I'll ever be back. Good thing my suitcase was about 1/3 empty!

After finally finding that leather store across from Dante's church (open this time) and wandering the Ponte Vecchio, I got a couple bus tickets and caught Bus 13 up to Piazzale Michelangelo, around 5pm. I could see this view at sunset every single day of my life and never get tired of it. I did the extra little hike to San Miniato and made it in time for the 5:30pm vespers. I inconspicuously sneaked a couple videos, and by the time I left the church, the sun had started to set a bit more and I took some pictures that will hopefully turn into good panoramas.

Caught bus 12 back down - and unlike 2 years ago did not get lost! Got off right across the Ponte Alle Grazie and walked around the Santa Croce area for a while before dinner to work up an appetite. I decided I was going to go back to I Ghibellini - a pizzeria I went to two years ago. I kind of got lost but after about 20 minutes wandering around I finally found it and was starving. I thought I was being good by ordering just a crostini and pasta… But… Then the crostini came out and was a HUGE slice of bread piled high with tasty things. So I left half of it so I'd have at least a little room for my pasta - homemade fresh pici - like really thick chewy spaghetti. It was delicious and I ate as much as I could possibly get down. I got a small cannella (cinnamon)/chocolate gelato at Perche No on the way back to the B&B but I couldn't even finish it!

Off to Bologna tomorrow!

Pictures coming soon

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Pictures: October 15

http://www.flickr.com/photos/debstah1/sets/72157622593120412/

Enjoy!!!

Italy 2009 Trip Day 2 - Thursday October 15

4:30pm CET: Sitting in the neat, tidy, peaceful Zurich airport. I can't believe how quiet this place is at 4pm on a weekday. I was going to buy some chocolate, but it's outrageous even at the Duty-Free shop. I don't understand the whole Duty-Free concept - yeah maybe there is "no tax" but the stuff has to be a good 50%+ more expensive than other shops. So big freaking whoop.

My flight takes off at 5:45, but when I headed toward that gate, this guy said we were early and there were no toilets at the gate so we should just stay and shop and eat.

I got probably 5 hours of not very sound sleep. Flight was fairly smooth save for some bumpy parts. Landed a bit early, excellent. Going to take a picture of the one view of Zurich I will have during my 2 hours here :p I am tired.

Almost at Firenze!!!

4:50pm: made it through security. Had to open my suitcase and show them my Fiskars for kids scissors - she laughed as soon as she saw how small and plastic they were. I asked the guy if I had to take off my shoes and he said no, and I said I asked because we have to take all shoes off in the US and he laughed and said "the hysteria in America" but yet they question my plastic scissors, which they didn't do in LA :)

I still cannot get over how freaking quiet and empty and orderly this airport is.

6:25pm: currently flying over the Alps (I presume?) as the sun sets. I kinda wish I had my camera readily accessible and was in a window seat! Because I know you were wondering with baited breath, Mel, this plane does have individual A/C units and I did immediately check to make sure they worked ;) And the good news is that I also made it onto this plane with carry-on only, which was a nice surprise since it's a small plane and I thought I was maybe going to have to gate check it. But no, the bins were big enough! That's a relief and one less thing to worry about and waste time on when I arrive. I can run straight to the taxi and get to town ASAP.

This flight's only 55 min long air-wise. Nice. But they still brought around drinks and a snack of a soft pretzel SMEARED with butter. And here comes mini Toblerones! By the way, I should mention how odd it is that there is more legroom and more under-chair room than on my transatlantic flight. The chair's also more comfortable.

Met an American couple who are going to Florence for the first time, for a week. I gave them some pointers that they seemed to appreciate.

Sunset in the air is quite pretty.

10:15pm: Landed right on time. Caught a taxi easily (once I found the right place) and clutched tightly as my kind taxi driver weaved around the rotaries and in and out of lanes of traffic. I have no idea how I made it to Piazza della Repubblica safely, but here I am writing the rest of this blog! I buzzed and the lovely Claudio who owns the B&B I'm staying tonight and tomorrow night, greeted me warmly… actually, I thought I was going to get a hug, that's how friendly he was. Anyway, he showed me around and the place is exactly how it looked on the website, so that's a relief. My room is the less expensive of the three, because it has no Duomo view, but that also means it has no view of the square, which means no noise at night. All pros for me.

After I chatted with Claudio for a while and asked him some questions, I set out to find some food, aka gelato, from the wonderful Perche No which I'd had 2 years ago and loved. I had a delicious combo of Chocolate Mousse gelato (the texture is impossible to describe) and Bacio (chocolate and hazelnut). It was chilly, but who cares :) As an aside, walking around this city again, I felt the familiarity and it felt like coming home, in a way. This city is simply magical.

Then I basically just wandered all around. Took some pictures in Piazza della Signoria, Piazza della Repubblica, from the Ponte Vecchio and of the Ponte Vecchio, then over to the Duomo and Baptistery.

So, now I am here updating this and soon I will be making myself try to get some sleep so I get on a normal schedule! Pictures coming soon, if not later today then tomorrow! :)

Italy 2009 Trip Day 1 - Wednesday October 14

4:39pm PDT: I truly cannot believe I am here sitting in the airport ready to go to Italy. I've been thinking about this trip for about two years. It still hasn't quite sunk in that I'm actually going and actually going today - despite the fact that I am sitting in the damn airport. I booked my ticket 6 months ago. How is it time already? Where does the time go? I fear the trip will fly by so fast it'll be like a dream. I must take a ton of pictures and try to remember every moment. Sorry in advance if I am boring with every detail :)

There's wireless here, but I am not going to pay $7.99. Dear LAX, Long Beach gives free wireless. Just FYI. I am bored already and have no internet to entertain me. How will I make it 11 days? As I said to a couple co-workers earlier today, I don't think I've been without the internet for 11 days since we GOT it when I was young. It will be a test of wills for sure :)

An uneventful shuttle ride. Came right on time at 2:40, but of course on the 405 we hit traffic so it took almost an hour to get to the airport. The other passenger in the van kept asking the driver to "drive smoothly" because he was getting carsick. Clearly he has never driven on the 405 before, because that road is impossible to drive smoothly on.

So, they didn't weigh my suitcase so I got IN with my carry-on with no extra effort. Now I wish I'd brought that extra pair of pants I took out at the last minute :) The international terminal, which I've never been inside before, is quite a mess. They're remodeling all over and once you get past security, a lady told me there was almost no food. So at about 4:00 I had a good old McDonald's fries. I hate McD's so much, but their fries are so damn good. I love how they're literally twice as expensive at the airport.

Back to the present, now, and here I am sitting in nearly-empty gate 104 more than 2 hours before boarding. But that's OK, I like the peacefulness of it. It seems like the weather might be clearing up a bit - If you'd told me a week or two ago that the weather was going to be nicer upon my arrival in Italy than it is here in LA, I probably would have laughed at you. But it's been awful here the last two days, which makes me feel even less badly about leaving for almost three weeks.

I'm already getting boring and my flight hasn't even taken off yet. I'm sorry in advance. I warn people about the dreaded "wall of text" every day at work and here I am giving you one. Oh, look, the incoming flight (the one I'll be taking on my trip back to LA) is arriving, just on time. Which is, of course, good news because that means my plane is here nice and early. People are taking pictures of it. I enjoy good pictures/memories as much as anyone, but really? The plane sitting in taxi at the airport? I guess whatever floats their boat!

It's quite interesting how, in the international terminal, English is probably the minority language. Feels like I could be at any airport anywhere in the world with the variety of languages being spoken and passports being flashed.

I'll stop boring you. For now!!!


5:20pm PDT: I spot sunshine in LA!!!!!!!!!!!

11:50pm CDT: I think we're over the midwest somewhere, according to the in-flight monitor thingy. Not far from Sioux Falls to be exact. The outside temp is -61F, because I'm sure you wanted to know. 8:41 left :( Had dinner, which consisted of surprisingly edible chicken, rice, salad, roll, and brownie. Before dinner they gave out a pretzel-y thing called something like "Happy Snack" (Amanda, I feel like this is kind of up your alley, so I've saved the bag and will take a picture for you later:)

When the flight first started, I looked up and, to my horror, saw no individually controllable a/c vent. My first thought was my coworker Mel's face when lovable Mr. Sterns was telling us that, to tell if the pressurization in your flight is working OK, you can check the a/c and make sure it's working. But soon after my mini-freak out, I felt some air so I am assuming all is well.

Flight has been smooth so far. Not much to report. Going to try to sleep as much as possible!

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Where in the world have the last 5 months gone?????

Holy cow...

Last time I updated, I'd just booked tickets and finalized my itinerary. Now I leave in FOUR DAYS! Where has the time gone!!???!!?!?!

Pretty much everything is in place as I'd hoped. The lovely Renee will be joining me for the 2nd part of the trip, which should be much fun seeking out the gelaterie and fun shops all over Tuscany.

I got my new camera, the fantastic Olympus EP-1, and cannot wait to try out all its features in the most beautiful place in the world.

I managed to snag a (free!!!!) cheese tour in Parma through the cheese consorzio, so I hope that's awesome. Rented a car, which should be an...interesting.... experience :)

Now if only my body would cooperate! I decided to get my 2 bottom wisdom teeth out a month before leaving, then a few days ago my back started hurting badly and now I have a sore throat and am hoping it's nothing worth worrying about. When you have been saving and dreaming and preparing and planning something for basically 2 years, you just want it to be perfect! So, fingers crossed.

This weekend is all about packing and doing the final little things. I'm mostly packed and my suitcase (the 5pound Sub-0-G rolling carry-on) is about 1/3 empty. But man, getting down to 18 pounds is not easy! Hopefully Swiss Air is not too strict about weight.

So, it's ridiculous that I'm leaving so soon. The biggest thing left to hope and pray for is good weather. Of course, rainy Italy is better than no Italy, but we're hoping for the best!

I think I'll have internet the first several days of the trip. I plan on blogging like last time. Even when I won't have internet I'll write up every day and post it all when i get home!

Friday, May 1, 2009

Finalized Itinerary and the Lucky Hotels

Well, after much thinking and planning, i've solidified the itinerary for the trip that I previously posted about, and booked all the accommodation. Hurrah!

Leaving Oct 14 and arriving Florence Oct 15.

2 nights Florence - La Dimora del Centro B&B (new place and not many reviews, but dayum it's well-located and looks nice!)
3 nights Bologna - Hotel Paradise
1 night Parma (I'd normally never ever stay one night somewhere, but most of the trains to Cinque Terre have to double back through Parma anyway, so why not stay a night. I just hope that the morning of my departure, I can find a parmagiano cheese tour :() - B&B Rubra (how cute does this place look!)
3 nights Cinque Terre - Martina Callo's Rooms (look at that sea view!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
8 nights agriturismo outside San Gimignano - Podere Poggio ai Cieli (8 nights for 360 euros for a 1-bedroom FLAT are you joking!!?!?!!)
1 night Florence - same B&B as the initial two nights

Did a lot of research. Hopefully these places work out well. Yay! It's important to me this time around to stay at smaller, friendlier places. Have small places for everywhere except bologna (but that hotel is less than 20 rooms yay), I couldn't find a centrally-located nice-looking B&B there. guess it's b/c it's so much primarily a business/convention city. too bad, but this one should work out well anyway and the price was very right!

Picking hotels and whatnot seems to be the hardest part because of the research involved, but there's still much left to do, like planning itineraries and whatnot. You know me, anal retentive planner :) But i'm happy that way :)

Friday, April 17, 2009

gotta love the airlines....

So I booked my flight, leaving Oct 14, coming back Nov 2, for $579 a couple days ago. Today, that same exact flight is $817. Thank god I had the guts to book it when i did. Of course, with all the insanity with airlines, it's likely to go down again, but I doubt it'll go below $579, so I feel like I won the lottery I bit. PONTE VECCHIO HERE I COME!!!!!!!! :D

So now i'm starting the initial research, making up the actual itinerary, etc. 18 days may sound like a long time, but when you want to see the whole damn country, it's pretty difficult! This is what I'm thinking initially:

Arrive 7pm Florence

2 nights Florence

3 nights Bologna

1 night Parma (b/c it's silly to do a day trip from Bologna and then have to go back to get the train to Cinque Terre there anyway)

3 nights Cinque Terre

8 nights Tuscany probably near Siena/Central tuscany area in an agriturismo with car

get rid of the car and spend last night in Florence b/c the flight back leaves at 9:30am and I'd rather not try to navigate the roads at 6am!

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

It's Really Gonna Happen!!!!

When you find airfare from LA to Florence for $579 on a good airline at fairly convenient times, you take it. So, I took it. ITALY HERE I COME!!

Now the fun begins. Last time, I kinda had to work out the itinerary before booking flight, since I was flying open jaw. This time I have more flexibility - and 18 glorious nights to decide how to spend.

WOOOOOOHOOOOOO!!!!!

Sunday, March 29, 2009

And the planning begins....

Due to moving, getting health insurance through my work, and getting a bigger-than-expected tax refund, it looks like Italy Fall 2009 is going to go ahead as planned. Ideas, itineraries, questions, dreams, wishes, hopes, plans, and everything else are spinning in my head. At least it might mean this blog can become alive again :P

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Thank you!

I just wanted to say thank you to the people from the Rick Steves helpline (a fantastic and friendly resource of all your Europe travel needs and questions) who have said many kind things about my little blog. I wish I had more inspiration and words to keep updating. Feel free to read my trip blog from last summer and come back or subscribe for updates, maybe I'll find some inspiration soon :)