Italy 2009 Trip Day 6 - Monday October 19

Woke up at 7:30 to my alarm on my ipod. Went down to breakfast and set out to find the Mercato delle Erbe. I knew it was on via Ugo Bassi but I didn't know where. I wandered up a ways and couldn't find it. I should've asked someone :) Instead I walked up to the train station and got on the 10am train to Ferrara, arriving at 10:30. Conveniently, I was able to find a poncho in the Ferrara station's market. As an aside, there was an American family in the seats across from me. The kid was probably about 10 or 11 and the things he was saying clearly suggested they've been in Italy for an extended time…doesn't he have school?

Followed signs to the Castle in the center of town and the walk from the train station was farther than I thought it was going to be. But I made it in about 15 min and the castle is quite an impressive building. Wandered around a bit more, found the tourist info office inside the castle, got a map and asked where the Jewish museum was and set out to find it. The tour was at 12 and it was about 11:30 so I wandered these old alleys a bit. I went into a 99c store! HAHA!! I bought an emery board, since I'd broken a couple nails.

At 12, went in to the museum. There were 2 other couples - both italian. And as an aside, I'd like to note that 3 of the 4 of them were wearing BLUE jeans and ALL FOUR of them were wearing SNEAKERS. So me, the only American, was wearing nice slacks and black shoes. That's all I have to say about that.

Anyway the tour was interesting enough. There was quite a strong/old jewish community in Ferrara dating back to medieval times. They had the keys from the ghetto gates from the 1600s and even a torah scroll from the 1700s. The remaining active synagogue (with 70 members) is quite small and beautiful and the museum contains quite a lot of old memorabilia type things.

I was so hungry after the tour around 1, but on Monday it seemed like 90% of the restaurants in Ferrara were closed. Really annoying. I kept wandering and wandering til about 2ish when I finally gave up and went to a 'touristy' place right on the main square. I just had a sandwich. I tried to go to the castle, and it was closed. Wish I knew about that earlier.

Tried to catch the 2:30 train back to bologna but I miscalculated the time and got a bit lost so I showed up about 2:50. there was a slower train leaving at 3, so I caught that instead of waiting til a 3:30 train.

I'd say Ferrara was a bit of a waste. The Jewish tour was interesting and their duomo is quite beautiful but I should have planned better and caught a much earlier train.

Back in Bologna about 4pm, I took a bus down to the main square, figured I'd just wander around a bit more. Lo and behold, on the bus, I saw a sign for MERCATO DELLE ERBE! So I got off at Piazza Maggiore and wandered there for a few minutes. Went into the famous Tamburini shop/deli and looked at the goods. It was really quiet in there though. Then went back to the Mercato delle Erbe, which would not reopen til 5. Found a coop supermarket right near it and bought a bottle of water and some of the local shape of pasta.

The Mercato delle Erbe is….amaaaaaaaaaazing. It's like the Boqueria in Barcelona, except 100% Italian. There are no bananas at this market. Why? Because bananas don't grow in Italy. I think you get the point. But the best thing about the market is that it's freaking cheap. Many stalls had several types of grapes for one euro a KILO. And they're the biggest grapes you've ever seen. It's also very very un-touristy, and one guy even glared at me for just having a camera around my neck. Whatever dude, I caused no harm. Bought some tomatoes and tangerines for a whopping 1.40 euros, and some Baranese (or something?) green olives. They're delicious!

Wandered around yet a bit more and bought a cheesy magnet to add to my collection - it's a TORTELLINI with the two towers in the middle, I love it haha. Came back to the hotel a little after 6pm and here I am typing at a little after 7. Started packing up so that I can try to do as many pictures after dinner as possible before I leave for Parma.

8:30pm: back from dinner. Managed to get into Trattoria del Biassanot, which is the one that turned me down on Saturday. They said I had to be done by 8:30, well for me that's no problem eating alone. Only a few minutes later they started turning people away. Most of the people in the place seemed to be tourists, but the food was awesome. I had the traditional pasatelli in brodo, which is glorified (but delicious) chicken noodle soup. Then I had pasta, which was also delicious. Interestingly, this place had a cover charge AND then added 10% for service. Whatever. It was still tasty.

Now I want to do as many pics as I can and finish packing up so I can get out pretty quickly tomorrow.

Bologna is different. I don't think it has an attracting heart and soul like Florence, but the food really is indeed the center of this city. I could shop at the Mercato delle Erbe every day of my life. There aren't that many sites and the architecture is not THAT interesting, but it's definitely a cool place that's bustling without the annoyances of Rome.