Not too many pictures today (Bari is not that photogenic and most of Gravina was underground and in a museum), but they are here http://www.flickr.com/photos/debstah1/sets/72157626665140365/
10:15pm: Exhausted after another long day. Woke up around 7 and scarfed down a coffee and toast and made the short walk from the B&B in Lecce to the station in plenty of time for the 8am train to Bari. The train was packed and interestingly for a Monday morning tons of people had suitcases. Then more people kept getting on with each stop and it kept getting hotter. and the train kept getting delayed somehow, even though it left Lecce on time. A miserable 2 hours 10 minutes later I was in Bari 40 minutes late, where it wasn't even that warm, and could finally catch some fresh air.
Showing posts with label Gelato. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gelato. Show all posts
Monday, May 23, 2011
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Day 15 - 5/22/11: Lecce blog and pictures
pictures here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/debstah1/sets/72157626656209443/
10:15: Pretty uneventful day. Woke up around 8, had breakfast delivered to the room consisting of coffee, toast, and 2 delicious croissants.Since there's not all that much to do in Lecce, I didn't rush out. Around 9:30 I went to the Provincial Museum and I was literally the only person there. They turned on the lights for me. The place is free entry and i believe it has hurt the museum. The collection is just endless cases of old stuff, not really labeled, no descriptions given, parts of it are closed and empty, and no one visits. Such a shame; it could be great.
Then I wandered up and found the big castle. That was also strangely empty. there were a few rooms exhibiting the local craft of cartapesa, which is making figurines (mostly religious) out of paper mache. It's amazing stuff and again almost no one there.
Right behind the castle is the town's park, called public gardens. Since it was sunday morning a lot of families were going to/from church so it was quite fun to park it on a bench and just people-watch. this is quite a little park with gardens, a bar/cafe, two different playgrounds for kids, and a big fountain that was empty.
Wandered back into the town center and just browsed until lunch time. I got a rustico from La Rusticana, a bustling place on the main drag between two main squares. A rustico is basically puff pastry filled with cheese and tomato. It's a Leccese specialty. 1.50 euros of deliciousness. Then I went over to Natale and got a gelato and sat in the main square Piazza Sant'Oronzo and just people watched for a while.
Then as mid-afternoon came, the siesta started, everything closed, and the streets completely emptied again. with literally nothing to do I came back to the B&B for a while, then left around 5, wandered around and came back around 6, and then set out for dinner around 7:30. On the main street all these little vendors selling handmade goods set up every day. Unlike the immigrants hawking illegal crap, these people have badges and seem to always be in the same place. I bought a nice little pair of pearl earrings for 7 euros from one of them and then went to Nonna Tetti for dinner. I had a local specialty called ciceri e tria, which is hard to explain. basically it's wide flat handmade pasta, most of which is boiled normally but some of which is deep fried (think chinese food takeout crispy noodles?), and mixed with chick peas. Google for a picture :)
Sufficiently stuffed I came back to the B&B and now I just have to pack up to move on already. Tomorrow I join a tour of the highlights of Puglia!
10:15: Pretty uneventful day. Woke up around 8, had breakfast delivered to the room consisting of coffee, toast, and 2 delicious croissants.Since there's not all that much to do in Lecce, I didn't rush out. Around 9:30 I went to the Provincial Museum and I was literally the only person there. They turned on the lights for me. The place is free entry and i believe it has hurt the museum. The collection is just endless cases of old stuff, not really labeled, no descriptions given, parts of it are closed and empty, and no one visits. Such a shame; it could be great.
Then I wandered up and found the big castle. That was also strangely empty. there were a few rooms exhibiting the local craft of cartapesa, which is making figurines (mostly religious) out of paper mache. It's amazing stuff and again almost no one there.
Right behind the castle is the town's park, called public gardens. Since it was sunday morning a lot of families were going to/from church so it was quite fun to park it on a bench and just people-watch. this is quite a little park with gardens, a bar/cafe, two different playgrounds for kids, and a big fountain that was empty.
Wandered back into the town center and just browsed until lunch time. I got a rustico from La Rusticana, a bustling place on the main drag between two main squares. A rustico is basically puff pastry filled with cheese and tomato. It's a Leccese specialty. 1.50 euros of deliciousness. Then I went over to Natale and got a gelato and sat in the main square Piazza Sant'Oronzo and just people watched for a while.
Then as mid-afternoon came, the siesta started, everything closed, and the streets completely emptied again. with literally nothing to do I came back to the B&B for a while, then left around 5, wandered around and came back around 6, and then set out for dinner around 7:30. On the main street all these little vendors selling handmade goods set up every day. Unlike the immigrants hawking illegal crap, these people have badges and seem to always be in the same place. I bought a nice little pair of pearl earrings for 7 euros from one of them and then went to Nonna Tetti for dinner. I had a local specialty called ciceri e tria, which is hard to explain. basically it's wide flat handmade pasta, most of which is boiled normally but some of which is deep fried (think chinese food takeout crispy noodles?), and mixed with chick peas. Google for a picture :)
Sufficiently stuffed I came back to the B&B and now I just have to pack up to move on already. Tomorrow I join a tour of the highlights of Puglia!
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Day 6 - 5/13/11: Lovely Sorrento
I give up waiting for blogger to restore the post from May 12. Here is yesterday's:
9:30pm: Sitting in the B&B Sorrento after a long, but good, day. Woke up just before my alarm at 7:30, finished packing, had breakfast at Bar Valle, and walked to Largo Argentina to get a taxi. It was only 7 euros, I was expecting more. Hopped on the train and went to Naples. It arrived a bit late, but was otherwise fine. Had a bit of trouble finding the tourist office but foundi it and picked up my 2 Artecards for museum admission and transport while I am in Campania. Managed to catch the 11:11am Circumvesuviana train (think above ground subway) to Sorrento. The train was packed and I had to stand for half the trip until the train emptied out at Pompeii.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Day 3: Aventino, Testaccio, & a Lot of OLD STUFF
6:15 pm: Holy long day. Slept well again and woke up to my alarm at 7:45. Had brekfast and set out for the Aventine hill. I knew I could take bus 30 there, but somehow I kept walking around Largo Argentina in circles so I decided to hop on the (not-so-)Express bus 40 to the station, then the metro to Circo Maximo. Still a big empty oval. Set out to find the Aventine Hill - on a day like today I had to find the Knights of Malta Keyhole - famous for perfectly framing St. Peters's dome. Pretty amazing stuff. Also wandered through this lovely orange garden (with equally lovely views) and saw the peaceful Saint Sabina church. Descended the Aventine in the direction of Testaccio to find the famous covered market. Yummy food wonderland full of fresh fruits and veggies from all over as well as lots of meat and fish and bread (and pet food and toilet paper?) stands. I found the one thing at which California beats Italy - the strawberries.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Day 2: Orvieto, San Pietro, and More
Phew, what a long day! I actually slept better last night than I have in a long time - take that, jetlag! Woke up with my alarm at 7:10 and got ready quickly because I had an 8:22 Intercity train to Orvieto that I had already booked (at half price by booking in advance). Got breakfast at the cafe my B&B associates with. Nutella croissant never a bad way to start the day. Bought bus tickets (following my Italian victory of asking a newsstand if they sold them - in Italian!) and took the bus to the station. I never realized how massive Termini is. It's basically a shopping mall combined with a train station that has more than 30 tracks. Anyway, after a short delay, the train set off and arrived in Orvieto a little over an hour later.
Orvieto is lovely, but, really, not all that much different from the other hilltop towns I've seen. The duomo is ridiculous, however. And it has this amazing system of over 1200 underground caves. Now they offer a tour so I took the English one at 11:15 for 6 euros. Orvieto was originally settled by the Etruscans, so you have ancient olive oil mills/presses, quarries, and ... pigeon homes. Wandered around a bit more and grabbed a quick focaccia lunch at a bakery, followed by a delicious gelato. One shop had gorgeous olive wood stuff, reminding me of my favorite shop in Siena, however, the owner greeted everyone in English and there was a sign outside saying "$ accepted here" - I refused to buy anything just on principle. Made my way back to the duomo and took the bus to the funiculaire to the station and bought a 2pm ticket back, arriving in Rome a little after 3pm.
Orvieto is lovely, but, really, not all that much different from the other hilltop towns I've seen. The duomo is ridiculous, however. And it has this amazing system of over 1200 underground caves. Now they offer a tour so I took the English one at 11:15 for 6 euros. Orvieto was originally settled by the Etruscans, so you have ancient olive oil mills/presses, quarries, and ... pigeon homes. Wandered around a bit more and grabbed a quick focaccia lunch at a bakery, followed by a delicious gelato. One shop had gorgeous olive wood stuff, reminding me of my favorite shop in Siena, however, the owner greeted everyone in English and there was a sign outside saying "$ accepted here" - I refused to buy anything just on principle. Made my way back to the duomo and took the bus to the funiculaire to the station and bought a 2pm ticket back, arriving in Rome a little after 3pm.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Day 1 Cont.: Ciao Roma!
Sitting in the room at the lovely B&B (lying in bed more accurately) after a long day that really feels like two. After the plane arrived a few minutes late, I coasted through passport control. An aside - WTF does a girl have to do to get a frigging Italy passport stamp because apparently going through an Italian passport control with a US passport is not enough!
Anyway, luggage took some time so it was nearly two before I went through customs and found my trusty Rome Cabs driver waiting for me. And thanks to him he provided the first epic memory of the trip. As he was pulling out of the airport, he didnt let this girl cross the street (Pedestrians do NOT get the right of way here - in fact i think there is no such thing as Right of Way here). she gave him a look, then he drove on for about 2 seconds. stopped. backed up. got out of the car, and totally told her off. Holy crap, have I ever mentioned how much I love this place?!??
Anyway, luggage took some time so it was nearly two before I went through customs and found my trusty Rome Cabs driver waiting for me. And thanks to him he provided the first epic memory of the trip. As he was pulling out of the airport, he didnt let this girl cross the street (Pedestrians do NOT get the right of way here - in fact i think there is no such thing as Right of Way here). she gave him a look, then he drove on for about 2 seconds. stopped. backed up. got out of the car, and totally told her off. Holy crap, have I ever mentioned how much I love this place?!??
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Italy 2009 Trip Day 5 - Sunday October 18
5:25pm: Woke up around 8:30 after having not gone to sleep til like, 2:30am or later. Anyway, woke up and got ready, moved the drying laundry to the closet from the bathroom, and went to breakfast. Cappuccino, a couple kinds of pastry (croissant smeared with nutella!!!!!), a hard-boiled egg, and I was off on my way.
Wandered around the Piazza Maggiore area again - took some pictures in the same place I did yesterday - except that today was quiet and empty where yesterday stood a very busy and bustling market. Went to the tourist info office just before 10:30 for the church/monument walking tour. A couple I recognized from breakfast that morning was on there so we started chatting; turns out they're from Palo Alto, come to Italy every year and always stay at the hotel in one of their apartments. The tour was good, we saw two of the main churches, the Due Torre (2 towers), and the main square, and plenty along the way. The church of Santo Stefano is particularly cool - it's actually several churches put together and all in stone and kind of dark.
So after the tour was over, the lovely Jerry and Sandi asked if I wanted to join them at lunch - they were going to a pizzeria they liked called Pino. Luckily it was open today. I had a pizza piled high with prosciutto. It was delicious. It took me 4 days in Italy to have pizza, I know you're proud!
After this, they showed me their favorite gelateria off the beaten track (Gianni). They had awesome names for gelato, including "L'avvocato" or, The Lawyer. HA! They also showed me a big supermarket way off the beaten track, where I bought a few different chocolate bars AND THE GREEN SICILIAN OLIVES I DISCOVERED LAST TIME IN FLORENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That kind of made my day. Anyway, came back to the hotel for a couple minutes, gave them my email address, and talked to the owner a bit. Everyone suggested I go to Ferrara tomorrow. We'll see.
Set off to find the Jewish Ghetto which is right near the Two Towers. The streets (alleys?) are narrower and less open and airy than the rest of town. There was some bizarre procession on the way. At first I thought it was a funeral but people were clapping and watching and they were heading towards a small church, they didn't seem upset. People were burning stuff, there was practically a marching band-type group, and they were carrying something.
Anyway I walked around the ghetto for a few minutes but I decided not to go into the Jewish Museum… just did not feel up to it? Got a small gelato (chocolate and coffee) at the 2nd branch of the Gianni Gelateria. It came in an edible (cone) cup, called "cisterne" - really cool!
Walked around and found the pizzeria I ate at yesterday. They are open tonight, so I might head there for dinner. They have beef on the menu (I think) so I may splurge for that.
Wandered back and into the city's actual Duomo (which unlike most Italian cities is not on the city's main square but near the start of the main road that connects the train station with the heart of the historical center), which was quite beautiful indeed. Also checked out Zara and H&M, and still no sign of a decent-looking cheap pair of sunglasses. By the time I find them, the rain will have moved in LOL! Maybe tomorrow I should look for a poncho instead... Came back to the hotel to write this up, upload yesterday's pictures (which at nearly 7pm now is still not done), and look up Ferrara a bit. Seems quite interesting indeed so I think I'll definitely head there tomorrow - plus it's only a half hour on the train, which I didn't realize!
9:00pm: back at the hotel stuffed to the gills. Went back to the pizzeria I ate at yesterday, it was indeed open! I splurged and had filetto (beef) with a side of roasted potatoes. Oh. My. God. See, the potatoes were just roasted with some rosemary and olive oil. And the steak was just grilled and they brought ME the olive oil and salt to season it to my liking. That's why food is so good here. I was brought two plates that appeared plain. No garnish, no froo-froo. Just real damn good food. You just can't get beef like that in the US. Was it the most tender I've ever had? But it just had so much flavor. By the way, I ordered (or tried to order) the steak "mezzo sanguine" or medium rare. Well, it was fine for me, but it was no medium rare. It was way rarer than probably any restaurant in the US would be willing to serve it! So it was a bit of a splurge, but it was worth every penny and really hit the spot.
A little after 8, I finished dinner and walked around the main square and took some pictures at night. Then I found the main branch of the Gianni gelateria and got a small "cisterna" of nutella and coffee. This place's gelato is so flavorful and so creamy, it's among the best I've had anywhere, really.
So now I am back at the hotel, I will try to go to bed early tonight so I can make it to the food market early tomorrow, so I can make it to Ferrara on the 9am train. The 10am is probably more reasonable though. ;)
Wandered around the Piazza Maggiore area again - took some pictures in the same place I did yesterday - except that today was quiet and empty where yesterday stood a very busy and bustling market. Went to the tourist info office just before 10:30 for the church/monument walking tour. A couple I recognized from breakfast that morning was on there so we started chatting; turns out they're from Palo Alto, come to Italy every year and always stay at the hotel in one of their apartments. The tour was good, we saw two of the main churches, the Due Torre (2 towers), and the main square, and plenty along the way. The church of Santo Stefano is particularly cool - it's actually several churches put together and all in stone and kind of dark.
So after the tour was over, the lovely Jerry and Sandi asked if I wanted to join them at lunch - they were going to a pizzeria they liked called Pino. Luckily it was open today. I had a pizza piled high with prosciutto. It was delicious. It took me 4 days in Italy to have pizza, I know you're proud!
After this, they showed me their favorite gelateria off the beaten track (Gianni). They had awesome names for gelato, including "L'avvocato" or, The Lawyer. HA! They also showed me a big supermarket way off the beaten track, where I bought a few different chocolate bars AND THE GREEN SICILIAN OLIVES I DISCOVERED LAST TIME IN FLORENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That kind of made my day. Anyway, came back to the hotel for a couple minutes, gave them my email address, and talked to the owner a bit. Everyone suggested I go to Ferrara tomorrow. We'll see.
Set off to find the Jewish Ghetto which is right near the Two Towers. The streets (alleys?) are narrower and less open and airy than the rest of town. There was some bizarre procession on the way. At first I thought it was a funeral but people were clapping and watching and they were heading towards a small church, they didn't seem upset. People were burning stuff, there was practically a marching band-type group, and they were carrying something.
Anyway I walked around the ghetto for a few minutes but I decided not to go into the Jewish Museum… just did not feel up to it? Got a small gelato (chocolate and coffee) at the 2nd branch of the Gianni Gelateria. It came in an edible (cone) cup, called "cisterne" - really cool!
Walked around and found the pizzeria I ate at yesterday. They are open tonight, so I might head there for dinner. They have beef on the menu (I think) so I may splurge for that.
Wandered back and into the city's actual Duomo (which unlike most Italian cities is not on the city's main square but near the start of the main road that connects the train station with the heart of the historical center), which was quite beautiful indeed. Also checked out Zara and H&M, and still no sign of a decent-looking cheap pair of sunglasses. By the time I find them, the rain will have moved in LOL! Maybe tomorrow I should look for a poncho instead... Came back to the hotel to write this up, upload yesterday's pictures (which at nearly 7pm now is still not done), and look up Ferrara a bit. Seems quite interesting indeed so I think I'll definitely head there tomorrow - plus it's only a half hour on the train, which I didn't realize!
9:00pm: back at the hotel stuffed to the gills. Went back to the pizzeria I ate at yesterday, it was indeed open! I splurged and had filetto (beef) with a side of roasted potatoes. Oh. My. God. See, the potatoes were just roasted with some rosemary and olive oil. And the steak was just grilled and they brought ME the olive oil and salt to season it to my liking. That's why food is so good here. I was brought two plates that appeared plain. No garnish, no froo-froo. Just real damn good food. You just can't get beef like that in the US. Was it the most tender I've ever had? But it just had so much flavor. By the way, I ordered (or tried to order) the steak "mezzo sanguine" or medium rare. Well, it was fine for me, but it was no medium rare. It was way rarer than probably any restaurant in the US would be willing to serve it! So it was a bit of a splurge, but it was worth every penny and really hit the spot.
A little after 8, I finished dinner and walked around the main square and took some pictures at night. Then I found the main branch of the Gianni gelateria and got a small "cisterna" of nutella and coffee. This place's gelato is so flavorful and so creamy, it's among the best I've had anywhere, really.
So now I am back at the hotel, I will try to go to bed early tonight so I can make it to the food market early tomorrow, so I can make it to Ferrara on the 9am train. The 10am is probably more reasonable though. ;)
Friday, October 16, 2009
Italy 2009 Trip Day 3 - Friday October 16
7:30am: Wow, these beds are hard. But still, I slept not too badly considering the time change. Probably about 7 hours total. Looks like a chilly but clear morning in wonderful Florence! Very much looking forward to a cappuccino for breakfast and then out for a very packed and full day!
2:10pm: Been going nonstop for about 6 hours and now I need a rest. Breakfast at Bar Donnini was delicious - 2 fresh pastries, a cappuccino and "orange juice" - I use the quotes because, sorry Italy, juice is one of the few things you don't really do very well. Anyway, a very nice "authentic" breakfast indeed. And there was a steamed milk heart on my cappuccino <3
Set on my way to Church of Santissima Annunziata - in the square of the same name, designed I believe by Michelangelo. Pretty church and one gorgeous side chapel. Some guy got really mad at me for taking a picture? Not someone who worked there but a tourist or person praying. But there were no signs forbidding it. I know it's a place of worship but I'm not one of those disrespectful people who uses flash or is even loud about taking pictures.
Made it to Palazzo Medici-Riccardi only to find that the Chapel of the Magi is closed today, bummer. But it meant the rest of the palace was free so I wandered around and took a few pictures.
Stumbled upon the San Lorenzo market and I bought a scarf/pashmina that is "supposedly" part cashmere and part silk, made in Italy, for 5 euros. It's probably total crap, but it's purple and cute and helped on this breezy but stunningly beautiful day.
Around 10 I got to "Dante's Church" - which I had tried to go into last time but it was closed. This time, I managed to catch it in the few short hours it's open. I was right in remembering a leather workshop right across from the church, but it was not open :(
Walked across the ponte vecchio and saw all the amazing glittery goodies. There was one pair of earrings I would absolutely love, but we'll see. I think they're in white gold, which would obviously be a lot more expensive than silver. But, they're so pretty...Then I found the famous chocolate shop and bought a couple of dark bars, they look so tasty.
I just kept wandering around, through the Oltrarno - found the Francesco shoe shop and they had nearly nothing in my size and the woman spoke no English. So I kind of got lazy and didn't feel like bothering. Some things I think I could BS my way through, but probably not purchasing shoes.
Made it to Palazzo Davanzati, the Church of Santa Trinita, and then Church of Santa Maria del Carmine - where the famous Brancacci Chapel lives. You're supposed to have a reservation but most books say if you're alone you can walk right in so right before noon I walked right in. Student rate for 18-25 year olds is 3 euros, otherwise 4. She said "it's 3 euros for students"... Oh, ok! Do I really look so young? :(
Wandered around a bit while I worked up my appetite, and found a little leather shop. Got a cute lavender wallet for 27 euros.
Found Trattoria Sostanza for lunch at about 12:45. Got the chicken breasts in butter I had read so much about. OH. MY. God. Just look at the picture when I can post it. I'm sitting here, now at 3pm, absolutely stuffed still. This is such, what I'd consider, a "typical" Florentine/Tuscan type of place. Large tables seated randomly with strangers. Small hand-written menu, really warm service, and awesome awesome food. On my way out, the guy shook my hand and was like, see you soon! So good.
9:10pm: Sitting in the B&B's tea room, stuffed again and a lot poorer after a fun afternoon of shopping and more eating. I may have bought not one but two purple leather purses, and two pairs of earrings. Not any one thing was particularly expensive, but with a 1.5 exchange rate, it adds up. Oh well, who knows when I'll ever be back. Good thing my suitcase was about 1/3 empty!
After finally finding that leather store across from Dante's church (open this time) and wandering the Ponte Vecchio, I got a couple bus tickets and caught Bus 13 up to Piazzale Michelangelo, around 5pm. I could see this view at sunset every single day of my life and never get tired of it. I did the extra little hike to San Miniato and made it in time for the 5:30pm vespers. I inconspicuously sneaked a couple videos, and by the time I left the church, the sun had started to set a bit more and I took some pictures that will hopefully turn into good panoramas.
Caught bus 12 back down - and unlike 2 years ago did not get lost! Got off right across the Ponte Alle Grazie and walked around the Santa Croce area for a while before dinner to work up an appetite. I decided I was going to go back to I Ghibellini - a pizzeria I went to two years ago. I kind of got lost but after about 20 minutes wandering around I finally found it and was starving. I thought I was being good by ordering just a crostini and pasta… But… Then the crostini came out and was a HUGE slice of bread piled high with tasty things. So I left half of it so I'd have at least a little room for my pasta - homemade fresh pici - like really thick chewy spaghetti. It was delicious and I ate as much as I could possibly get down. I got a small cannella (cinnamon)/chocolate gelato at Perche No on the way back to the B&B but I couldn't even finish it!
Off to Bologna tomorrow!
Pictures coming soon
2:10pm: Been going nonstop for about 6 hours and now I need a rest. Breakfast at Bar Donnini was delicious - 2 fresh pastries, a cappuccino and "orange juice" - I use the quotes because, sorry Italy, juice is one of the few things you don't really do very well. Anyway, a very nice "authentic" breakfast indeed. And there was a steamed milk heart on my cappuccino <3
Set on my way to Church of Santissima Annunziata - in the square of the same name, designed I believe by Michelangelo. Pretty church and one gorgeous side chapel. Some guy got really mad at me for taking a picture? Not someone who worked there but a tourist or person praying. But there were no signs forbidding it. I know it's a place of worship but I'm not one of those disrespectful people who uses flash or is even loud about taking pictures.
Made it to Palazzo Medici-Riccardi only to find that the Chapel of the Magi is closed today, bummer. But it meant the rest of the palace was free so I wandered around and took a few pictures.
Stumbled upon the San Lorenzo market and I bought a scarf/pashmina that is "supposedly" part cashmere and part silk, made in Italy, for 5 euros. It's probably total crap, but it's purple and cute and helped on this breezy but stunningly beautiful day.
Around 10 I got to "Dante's Church" - which I had tried to go into last time but it was closed. This time, I managed to catch it in the few short hours it's open. I was right in remembering a leather workshop right across from the church, but it was not open :(
Walked across the ponte vecchio and saw all the amazing glittery goodies. There was one pair of earrings I would absolutely love, but we'll see. I think they're in white gold, which would obviously be a lot more expensive than silver. But, they're so pretty...Then I found the famous chocolate shop and bought a couple of dark bars, they look so tasty.
I just kept wandering around, through the Oltrarno - found the Francesco shoe shop and they had nearly nothing in my size and the woman spoke no English. So I kind of got lazy and didn't feel like bothering. Some things I think I could BS my way through, but probably not purchasing shoes.
Made it to Palazzo Davanzati, the Church of Santa Trinita, and then Church of Santa Maria del Carmine - where the famous Brancacci Chapel lives. You're supposed to have a reservation but most books say if you're alone you can walk right in so right before noon I walked right in. Student rate for 18-25 year olds is 3 euros, otherwise 4. She said "it's 3 euros for students"... Oh, ok! Do I really look so young? :(
Wandered around a bit while I worked up my appetite, and found a little leather shop. Got a cute lavender wallet for 27 euros.
Found Trattoria Sostanza for lunch at about 12:45. Got the chicken breasts in butter I had read so much about. OH. MY. God. Just look at the picture when I can post it. I'm sitting here, now at 3pm, absolutely stuffed still. This is such, what I'd consider, a "typical" Florentine/Tuscan type of place. Large tables seated randomly with strangers. Small hand-written menu, really warm service, and awesome awesome food. On my way out, the guy shook my hand and was like, see you soon! So good.
9:10pm: Sitting in the B&B's tea room, stuffed again and a lot poorer after a fun afternoon of shopping and more eating. I may have bought not one but two purple leather purses, and two pairs of earrings. Not any one thing was particularly expensive, but with a 1.5 exchange rate, it adds up. Oh well, who knows when I'll ever be back. Good thing my suitcase was about 1/3 empty!
After finally finding that leather store across from Dante's church (open this time) and wandering the Ponte Vecchio, I got a couple bus tickets and caught Bus 13 up to Piazzale Michelangelo, around 5pm. I could see this view at sunset every single day of my life and never get tired of it. I did the extra little hike to San Miniato and made it in time for the 5:30pm vespers. I inconspicuously sneaked a couple videos, and by the time I left the church, the sun had started to set a bit more and I took some pictures that will hopefully turn into good panoramas.
Caught bus 12 back down - and unlike 2 years ago did not get lost! Got off right across the Ponte Alle Grazie and walked around the Santa Croce area for a while before dinner to work up an appetite. I decided I was going to go back to I Ghibellini - a pizzeria I went to two years ago. I kind of got lost but after about 20 minutes wandering around I finally found it and was starving. I thought I was being good by ordering just a crostini and pasta… But… Then the crostini came out and was a HUGE slice of bread piled high with tasty things. So I left half of it so I'd have at least a little room for my pasta - homemade fresh pici - like really thick chewy spaghetti. It was delicious and I ate as much as I could possibly get down. I got a small cannella (cinnamon)/chocolate gelato at Perche No on the way back to the B&B but I couldn't even finish it!
Off to Bologna tomorrow!
Pictures coming soon
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