Catalonia & Provence - Day 3 - Barcelona 5/12/18

For some reason my post from yesterday didn't feed to my social media. The link is here and the many pictures as videos are here. All of today’s many pictures are here (but if you are not interested in Gaudi architecture, these pictures are not for you).

3:30pm: sitting in the cafe at La Pedrera, the third and final Gaudi stop today to rest before going into the house. Got a terrible night sleep because some jerk in the building had a party all night long. Set off for the Sagrada Familia around 8. Had to take two subway lines to get there and then found a bakery that took forever but we were able to get a quick breakfast before visiting the church, which I'd inexplicably skipped last time I was here. It's truly incredible, despite the million (or two hundred, whatever) circular stairs down from the towers. After visiting the church, and its shop of course, we wandered through the Eixample district to one of the main streets. We found tapas 24, a place I'd read much about, and got a coffee before their tapas service started at 12:30. For lunch we got some kind of ham, cheese, truffle sandwich, olives, traditional local bread with tomato, and fideos, which is like paella but with local noodles and sausage. For everything it was about 40 euros, which seems quite reasonable considering the quality.

Then I found cacao sampaka, a fancy chocolate store, and spent all my money. Bought a little more chocolate in yet another store and then we went to the first Gaudi house, casa battlo, which is as wild as one would expect from Gaudi. Bought some earrings in the gift shop and here we are with some down time before the second house.

6:45pm - back at the airbnb for a break before what I think will be an early dinner. We went into Casa Mila early because we are tired and it was starting to rain - they let us in early and it is a good thing because the rooftop terrace is the best thing about this house and they close it in the rain. And that is probably a good thing because it was a little treacherous already. Took the metro back to the airbnb and i wandered around a little bit and bought a handmade necklace (the guy in the shop had to call and ask his mom how much it was), and some more chocolate. I have a problem, ok?

10:15: back at the airbnb after dinner at Bar Brutal in the Born district, which was basically ham on top of pork on top of more pork product, but it was delicious. We ended up there after trying a few places I had written down and by 8pm they were already packed, maybe because it’s Saturday? After dinner just wandered around some and made it back for the earely night.

Today’s walking totals: 19,607 steps, “only” 7.8 miles.

Italy 2009 Trip Day 3 - Friday October 16

7:30am: Wow, these beds are hard. But still, I slept not too badly considering the time change. Probably about 7 hours total. Looks like a chilly but clear morning in wonderful Florence! Very much looking forward to a cappuccino for breakfast and then out for a very packed and full day!

2:10pm: Been going nonstop for about 6 hours and now I need a rest. Breakfast at Bar Donnini was delicious - 2 fresh pastries, a cappuccino and "orange juice" - I use the quotes because, sorry Italy, juice is one of the few things you don't really do very well. Anyway, a very nice "authentic" breakfast indeed. And there was a steamed milk heart on my cappuccino <3

Set on my way to Church of Santissima Annunziata - in the square of the same name, designed I believe by Michelangelo. Pretty church and one gorgeous side chapel. Some guy got really mad at me for taking a picture? Not someone who worked there but a tourist or person praying. But there were no signs forbidding it. I know it's a place of worship but I'm not one of those disrespectful people who uses flash or is even loud about taking pictures.

Made it to Palazzo Medici-Riccardi only to find that the Chapel of the Magi is closed today, bummer. But it meant the rest of the palace was free so I wandered around and took a few pictures.

Stumbled upon the San Lorenzo market and I bought a scarf/pashmina that is "supposedly" part cashmere and part silk, made in Italy, for 5 euros. It's probably total crap, but it's purple and cute and helped on this breezy but stunningly beautiful day.

Around 10 I got to "Dante's Church" - which I had tried to go into last time but it was closed. This time, I managed to catch it in the few short hours it's open. I was right in remembering a leather workshop right across from the church, but it was not open :(

Walked across the ponte vecchio and saw all the amazing glittery goodies. There was one pair of earrings I would absolutely love, but we'll see. I think they're in white gold, which would obviously be a lot more expensive than silver. But, they're so pretty...Then I found the famous chocolate shop and bought a couple of dark bars, they look so tasty.

I just kept wandering around, through the Oltrarno - found the Francesco shoe shop and they had nearly nothing in my size and the woman spoke no English. So I kind of got lazy and didn't feel like bothering. Some things I think I could BS my way through, but probably not purchasing shoes.

Made it to Palazzo Davanzati, the Church of Santa Trinita, and then Church of Santa Maria del Carmine - where the famous Brancacci Chapel lives. You're supposed to have a reservation but most books say if you're alone you can walk right in so right before noon I walked right in. Student rate for 18-25 year olds is 3 euros, otherwise 4. She said "it's 3 euros for students"... Oh, ok! Do I really look so young? :(

Wandered around a bit while I worked up my appetite, and found a little leather shop. Got a cute lavender wallet for 27 euros.

Found Trattoria Sostanza for lunch at about 12:45. Got the chicken breasts in butter I had read so much about. OH. MY. God. Just look at the picture when I can post it. I'm sitting here, now at 3pm, absolutely stuffed still. This is such, what I'd consider, a "typical" Florentine/Tuscan type of place. Large tables seated randomly with strangers. Small hand-written menu, really warm service, and awesome awesome food. On my way out, the guy shook my hand and was like, see you soon! So good.

9:10pm: Sitting in the B&B's tea room, stuffed again and a lot poorer after a fun afternoon of shopping and more eating. I may have bought not one but two purple leather purses, and two pairs of earrings. Not any one thing was particularly expensive, but with a 1.5 exchange rate, it adds up. Oh well, who knows when I'll ever be back. Good thing my suitcase was about 1/3 empty!

After finally finding that leather store across from Dante's church (open this time) and wandering the Ponte Vecchio, I got a couple bus tickets and caught Bus 13 up to Piazzale Michelangelo, around 5pm. I could see this view at sunset every single day of my life and never get tired of it. I did the extra little hike to San Miniato and made it in time for the 5:30pm vespers. I inconspicuously sneaked a couple videos, and by the time I left the church, the sun had started to set a bit more and I took some pictures that will hopefully turn into good panoramas.

Caught bus 12 back down - and unlike 2 years ago did not get lost! Got off right across the Ponte Alle Grazie and walked around the Santa Croce area for a while before dinner to work up an appetite. I decided I was going to go back to I Ghibellini - a pizzeria I went to two years ago. I kind of got lost but after about 20 minutes wandering around I finally found it and was starving. I thought I was being good by ordering just a crostini and pasta… But… Then the crostini came out and was a HUGE slice of bread piled high with tasty things. So I left half of it so I'd have at least a little room for my pasta - homemade fresh pici - like really thick chewy spaghetti. It was delicious and I ate as much as I could possibly get down. I got a small cannella (cinnamon)/chocolate gelato at Perche No on the way back to the B&B but I couldn't even finish it!

Off to Bologna tomorrow!

Pictures coming soon

Florence Is Not Just a City of Museums!!

I need to get this off my chest. FLORENCE IS MORE THAN JUST MUSEUMS!!!! I realize I touched upon this in my controversial Traveler vs. Tourist post, but I feel I need to say more after seeing several questions on message boards like "do I need to go to Florence?" "is Florence worth the time?" "what's there to do in Florence?" - you get the point.

Florence is such a wonderful city. These people who take a day trip from Rome or who just sweep in and see the Uffizi and the David. I really don't get it. I don't even LIKE art, but I still loved the heartbeat of this city, the undercurrent of the Renaissance. It's everywhere. It fuels this city and makes it special. Not taking the time to experience this is doing both the city and the traveler a big disservice.

There are so many wonderful things about Florence. The architecture, the food, the gelato, the shopping. There are several open-air markets every day - the Loggia near the Ponte Vecchio and the San Lorenzo market around the San Lorenzo church. The Central Market (see picture at left, click for larger) is a double-decker market with meat and cheese and wine and a cornucopia of luscious fresh produce. The Ponte Vecchio gold shops are a dazzling sea of gorgeous 18 karat gold. There's pottery, leather, designer clothes and shoes, souvenirs, you name it. There are so lovely churches that range from the tiny to the large. Gorgeous art and sculpture is literally inescapable, sometimes even resting on the OUTSIDE of buildings.

Let's talk about the food. Everyone knows that Tuscan food is great, I hope. But really, it is WONDERFUL. More meat-heavy than what I found in either Venice or Rome, I had lovely chicken and beef dishes several times in Florence. The Bistecca alla Fiorentina - a t-bone steak flame-grilled to rare perfection, is lovely. Country Tuscan dining puts people next to each other at big long tables. This makes dining at these little trattorias not just a meal but a real true cultural experience. And the wine, if you like wine, there are enotecas at every turn, and in restaurants the house wine is often down right cheap. Tuscan food is about simplicity and quality ingredients. The olive oil alone is like nothing I've ever had before, just pour it over toasted bread and you have an amazing delicacy. And the list just goes on and on!

Let's also talk about the gelato. It's an artform just as much as the art in the museums. Mousse gelato, fruit sorbetti and gelato, you name it, the gelaterias in Florence are famous for serving some of the freshest and most creative gelato available.

How about just the fact that Florence is just simply BEAUTIFUL!!! You walk along the river, see the stately dome of the Duomo rise above, and if you look in any direction and you can't escape the awe-inspiring Tuscan Hills (see picture, click for larger). It's also inordinately gorgeous at night. I think few experiences in life could possibly match watching the sunset up on Piazzale Michelangelo as it sets on a Michaelangelo-designed staircase, or sitting in the lovely San Miniato al Monte church listening to the Gregorian Chants or just simply looking down on the city as another day sets. It is a view, it is a feeling, it is a memory that I know I will never ever forget (see picture below, click for larger).



Florence is also compact and easy to get around. Its bus system is excellent and the main areas of interest are all within walking distance. The neighborhood south of the river called the Oltrarno is less touristed and a little more "real" feeling. Florence is very safe. The people are lovely. Other museum like the Bargello (a statue museum in an old jail that seems painfully undervisited) and the Pitti Palace/Boboli Gardens are lovely and worth a visit. Even within the oft-visited Accademia, where the throngs of visitors and tour groups surround the David, there is a truly lovely and unique exhibit of Italian musical instruments that I thought was worth the Accademia price of admission in itself. Better yet, while all those crowds surrounded the David, I had the musical instruments exhibit almost to myself.

I don't understand. the 4 or so full days I spent in Florence weren't nearly enough. I want to go back, I want to wander the area around the Duomo, which I somehow kind of missed. I want to taste more gelato and try more of those wonderful little restaurants. I want to buy a leather purse and some more lovely jewelry unlike anything I've ever seen in the US. I want to check out some of the little churches down narrow alleys. For anyone who reads this who's planning a trip to Italy. Florence is more than a couple of world-famous museums. It can be busy, but you can make reservations early in the day to get those sights out of the way before the daytripping crowds arrive. Get away from the congested city center and you see a place that lives and breathes its beautiful past.

I dare you to go and stay a few days and really get down and dirty and experience the real Florence and come back and say you didn't like it.

Money-saving tips for shopping and sight-seeing

As I mentioned in one of my first posts on the blog, and of course as we all know, money is a crucial aspect of traveling - both in the planning and while we are actually at our destinations. Here are some money-saving tips I discovered for sight-seeing and shopping along my European trip. With the dollar getting worse by the day, those of us who like to travel on a controlled budget need all the help we can get! Some of these are more common sense than anything else, but I'll just mention all the ones I can think of and hopefully something might help you save a little money on your next trip!

Before You Go:

• Sometimes you can book trains in advance to get discounts. Some of the national rail companies offer discounts if you book in advance. For example, Trenitalia, the Italian rail company, offers Amica fares if you book in advance. You can save 20%! Also, ÖBB, the Austrian rail company, offers deals on tickets to other countries. I picked up my ticket from Vienna to Venice for 29 euros by booking online in advance - a savings of nearly HALF!

• Sometimes flying on the cheap Airlines is actually CHEAPER than the train - and of course faster! Check out all the possible deals at Kayak or SkyScanner. We flew from Lisbon to Barcelona for about 30 euros including tax/fees, and it took 2 hours instead of overnight and probably 3 times the cost to take a train!
  

• Packing light can help curb shopping and in turn, spending. I traveled for 6 weeks with a chock-full carry-on sized suitcase. Quite simply, I didn't have the space to shop like crazy. And since mailing one relatively small package home from the Netherlands cost over 30 euros, I just toned down the shopping.

• Fly open-jaw (as in, fly into one city and out of another). I got a ticket flying into London and out of Rome for just over $1,000, which is not bad considering I was flying at peak travel times into and out of peak summer travel cities. The best thing is that flying open-jaw not only saves the time and hassle of going back to a place you don't need to go back to, but also the money it costs to get there!
  

• Bring whatever you can. I know there are many opinions on this issue. the die hard light packers say, buy the basics when you arrive. If money's no object, or if you are going to one destination and perhaps renting an apartment or staying in one place for an extended amount of time, of course, this is probably a wise idea. However, if you will be moving around a lot or if your budget takes precedence over a little suitcase room, you can save money by packing what you need at home. The basics - toiletries, first aid items, over-the-counter medication, and the like, are all significantly cheaper in the US than, for example, in Europe.
  

• Look for hotel deals. Some hotels offer deals if you stay a certain number of nights (my hotel in Florence offered a free lunch at a glorious little trattoria if I stayed more than 4 nights), like meals or admission into sights. Also, if you think about booking with Expedia or Hotels.com or one of the similar booking discount sites, try contacting the hotel and seeing if they will give you that deal or even a little less - they might be willing because they get to avoid paying the hefty commission to the middle-man! Also, book far in advance. I was able to get a couple of deals on hotels booking about 6-7 months before my trip where the price went up - in a couple of cases a LOT - not long after I booked. And of course if you book early, you are more likely to find vacancies at those "hidden gems" - less expensive places that tend to fill up early.
  

• Get a CapitalOne Visa credit card. They are the only major card (that I could find anyway) that charges NO foreign conversion fees (many charge at least 1%, some 2 or 3%). Think about it, saving 1-3% on EVERYTHING you charge can really add up at the end of a long trip (especially considering hotel costs). Plus, it seemed like everyone took Visa in Europe. Not always the case with Amex, and Discover is basically nonexistent overseas.
  

• Use ATMs to get cash. When you use your ATM, you can save money over travelers checks or exchanging cash beforehand or in the airport (never ever use airport exchange desks!). ATMs use the rate on the day plus a small conversion fee (usually 1% of whatever you withdraw). Some banks charge a fee when you use an out of network ATM, but it's still less than the other exchanging methods.
  

While you're there:

• Take Public Transportation - taxis are nice, and sometimes necessary, but most of the time you can get by on public transport. Combo and multi-day cards can be an especially big money-saver. Especially to and from the airport, taxis and private transfers can be outrageously pricey, and many cities have excellent, cheap, frequent, and comfortable public transportation to and from their airports. Of course, if you are traveling in a group, sometimes a taxi can be cheaper, so check it out and do the math! And sometimes it's fun - like these trolleys in Lisbon. They're cheap and a great way to see less-traveled parts of the city (see picture, click for larger)!

• Check and see if there are buses that go between cities. Sometimes, especially in Italy where the train stations can sometimes be outside the city centers, the buses are actually a more convenient option, and they are usually less expensive. For example, between Florence and Siena, the buses leave right next to the Florence train station but take you right into the middle of Siena. If you take the train to Siena, you then have a long walk or cab/bus ride into town, and the train might be more expensive too. So check it out! Also, for your day trips, check and see if there's a discount for buying a round-trip (aka "return") train or bus ticket. Sometimes you can save money that way in countries that offer.
  

• Look into City Cards. Depending on what you want to see and how much the cards cost in a particular city, these cards can be a great deal. For example, I bought the Roma Pass for 20 euros, which got me into two sites (including the 11 euro Colosseum, AND it allows you to skip the line!) for free and provided 3 days of public transport. I figure I saved about 10 euros in the 3 days I used the card, since I used the bus and metro so much in Rome. In some cities, such as Lisbon and Copenhagen, their city cards include local trains within a certain area, so your transportation for some of the popular day trips is even covered; this makes these cards a particularly good deal. Some cards are not a big money-saver or they require you go to a LOT of sites to make it worth it. Look at each card for the cities you're going, think about the sights you want to see, and figure out if it'll save you money. Sometimes it will, sometimes it probably won't. Some cities also have combo cards which combine admission to several museums or sights.
  

• Prioritize your souvenir-shopping. I knew I wanted to buy jewelry in Florence and handmade masks in Venice. In the cities where there was no expensive souvenir I wanted, all I bought was a little commemorative souvenir magnet. This allowed me to have something from each stop on my trip but also let me save money for the more expensive things I really really wanted.

• Learn where it's appropriate to haggle/bargain over prices.

• Do self-guided instead of private tours. Sometimes you need to splurge, if there's a place that is particularly interesting to you, etc. But there are several places to find and print your own self-guided walking tours, which can help save money and also give you more freedom to tailor the tours to your own personality and energy level. Some of my favorites include Frommers (search for a city and check out the walking, and sometimes biking and driving tours) and the walking tours in the Rick Steves guidebooks. You can photocopy or tear out the pages before you go, so you can take the tours with you and toss them along the way!

• Look for sites that offer free entries. For example, some of Florence's main museums add free night hours during the year. Rome's Vatican museum is free some Sundays. Washington DC's fantastic museums are always free, as are some in London. During some of the summer, Brussels's Royal Palace is open and free to the public. Just be in mind that for popular museums that have one free day per week or month, these may be the busiest times. But if the budget requires, it's a great way to see stuff we might not otherwise be able to afford!

• Check out age-based discounts. For example, in Venice, the Rolling Venice Card costs 4 euros for people under 29, and that allows you to buy the 72 hour vaporetto pass for 18 euros instead of the normal 30, for a savings of 8 valuable euros. The Rolling Card is valid for a year and offers other discounts around the city, too. There are also often discounts for seniors, children are often admitted into sights for free, and some countries' train systems offer family rates.
  

• Get your VAT refund. Some guidebooks I read said that getting the VAT refund is too much of a pain. But if you are going to bother spending a lot of money (in Europe, anywhere from about $50 to hundreds of dollars depending on the country), you might as well get back the exorbitant taxes, which can be as high as 25% of the purchase price (in Denmark)! Check out the windows in stores for signs that say "Tax Refund" or "Tax Free Shopping," learn the minimums for each country you're going to, and if you spend over that minimum in one store in one day, ask the shopkeeper for the forms. You just have to make sure you don't use the items you buy before you leave. Stop at the Tax refund desk in your last airport, and get your money in your own currency! On my jewelry in Florence, I got about $40 USD back, and I barely spent over the minimum in Italy. So if you do spend enough money, it's probably worth your while to get your refund!

• This one may seem obvious - but get off the beaten track. Souvenirs cost a lot less - and are often better quality and more authentic - if you go where the locals go. Ask the people at your hotel for tips on places that offer good quality at good value - they live there and are in the tourism business, so they often have great tips and suggestions for places to shop or maybe even some undiscovered sights.